Crete, mythological island

We made the choice to spend two weeks in Crete during the Covid period, when the uncertainty of a new total closure was always around the corner but the desire to travel had become a need.

It was now July and there wasn't much time left to find an economical solution for a summer trip. The objective was to find a compromise between a holiday in complete freedom and "stay safe", avoiding the tourist crowds in August. Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, is the ideal destination for those who, like us, love holidays on the road and it is the right mix of fairytale sea and uncontaminated nature to be interspersed with cultural moments. Furthermore, thanks to its size and the variety of things to do and places to see, it allowed us to enjoy two dream weeks without worrying too much.

Our expectations were fully met!

Itinerary in a nutshell

Our journey lasted 15 days. 

Driving for 1638 km we crossed all four prefectures of Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Lassithi sleeping in Rethymno, Chania, Omalos, Chora Sfakion, Agios Nikolaos and Heraklion. 

Tips for Trips: the roads of Crete – especially in the southern part – are often small and full of curves, without guardrails and unpaved. They cross mountains and drop straight into the sea, in mountain villages they are so narrow that a car can barely fit through them. Two locations that appear close on the map are not necessarily connected by an asphalt road and often navigators, not finding speed limits, indicate half the travel time actually necessary.

Abbiamo goduto della vista delle più belle spiagge – Seitan Limania, Balos, Falasarna, Elafonissi, Skinaria, Glika Nera, Ammoùdi Beaches, Agiofarago, Vai beach – percorso sentieri naturali e selvaggi – Gole di Samaria, Ritchis Gorge, Canyon di Agiofarago – e visitato l’Isola di Chrysi. Leggi qui la nostra classifica delle 5 spiagge più belle e scopri come raggiungerle.

Despite the particular period - and wanting to avoid crowded places as much as possible - we wanted to dedicate a few days to the major sites of interest - Arkadi Monastery, Rethymno fortress, Psycrho, Spinalonga Island and Knossos Palace.

If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages of our journey day by day.

Day 1: Livadi Beach, Arkadi Monastery and Rethymno

We land at Heraklion airport at 11.55am. Having taken our suitcases we go to collect the car and move towards Rethymno. On the way we make our first stop at Livadi Beach where we enjoy a good Greek lunch by the sea and get to know Cretan Raki.

In the afternoon we visit Arkadi Monastery, famous for being the symbol of the Cretan resistance against the Ottomans. In 1866, almost 1000 Greeks took refuge in the monastery. After three days of siege, in order not to surrender to the Ottomans, they decided to sacrifice themselves by exploding the barrels of gunpowder, causing serious losses to the enemies. The monastery, now restored - with the exception of the powder magazine - is an oasis of peace in the mountains. 

Hours: Open every day. April – May/September – October: from 9am to 7pm. June – August: from 9am to 8pm.

In the evening, after having settled in the hotel, we take a first tour of Rethymno with its pretty marina and the old town in which to enjoy dinner and a walk through the alleys full of life until late in the evening.

Day 2: Fortress of Rethymno and Chania

We dedicate ourselves to visiting the Rethymno Fortress. It was built in 1573-1580 by the Venetian commander Alvico Lanto and designed by an engineer, Pallavicini. It is located on the site of a medieval fortress which had previously been the site of the ancient acropolis of Rethymno. It is surrounded by four bastions and strong walls, its presence dominates the city. Inside there were barracks, warehouses, public buildings and a military hospital. Today there remain the remains of the Imbraem Chan mosque, a Venetian church, some warehouses and cisterns. 

Hours: Open every day. April – October: from 8am to 8pm. November – March: from 10am to 5pm.

Once the visit is over we go down the alleys of the centre, full of flowers and bright colours. We stop for a good lunch in one of the many taverns that are filled with tourists.

In the afternoon we move to Chania. The historic center is a labyrinth of alleys which wind in all directions in which to walk between mosques and Orthodox churches to converge on the characteristic Venetian port. In addition to the port you can admire the Lighthouse, the symbol of the city. This imposing tower is also called the "Egyptian lighthouse" due to its reconstruction by the Egyptians in the nineteenth century. Of great importance is the Firkas Fortress, where there is the Maritime Museum and a small open-air theater. On 1 December 1913 the Greek flag was hoisted on the fortress, testifying to the independence of Crete achieved after over 260 years of Turkish rule. Finally, overlooking the western dock, is the oldest mosque in Crete: the Kioutsouk Hasan Mosque. Built by the Turks in 1645, the building was closed to worship after the reunion of Crete with Greece. It was later used as the seat of various administrative offices and, recently restored and currently used as an exhibition space for events, fairs and exhibitions.

Day 3: Seitan Limania and Kalathas Beach

Early in the morning we move towards the beach Seitan Limania (“Port of Satan”), on the Akrotiri peninsula. The incredible turquoise water makes its way through a crack in the rocks creating a natural inlet that leaves you breathless. By car you reach the free car park, after an asphalt road with four hairpin bends. From there to get to the beach you have to "climb" the rocky wall that encloses the valley. It is recommended to have comfortable shoes because the path is steep and quite rough. You just need to pay a little attention and take it calmly, Paolo also managed it.

Tips for Trips: There are 2 paths to get to the beach. We chose the one on the right because even if it was a little longer it seemed to be less steep.

After about 20 minutes of walking we arrive at the beach and all the efforts are forgotten. What appears before us is a spectacle of nature and we are enchanted. However, the beach is small and super crowded in the late morning so we only stop for a few hours and move on before lunch.

We then move on to Kalathas Beach where we have lunch overlooking the sea. In the afternoon we pitch our tent in one of the most secluded coves and relax until sunset.

Day 4: Balos and Falasarna

Wake up early and set off in the direction Balos, the best known beach in Crete and also one of the most beautiful: the sand is light with pink shades due to the shells, the water is transparent and with many different shades due to the shape of the bay which divides the sea into small pools. We decide to arrive early to avoid the crowds of tourists arriving on organized excursion ships. Early in the morning, between 9.00 and 10.00, even in high season, the beach is not very crowded. 

Tips for Trips: The road to get to Balos is unpaved and exposed in some sections, with many more or less deep potholes, but it is also very wide, which can be done calmly with any car. At the entrance of the dirt road you will have to pay an entrance fee per person, and after less than 10 km you will arrive at the parking lot. From here you then follow a path and a natural staircase which will take you to the beach in about 20 minutes.

In the afternoon we move to Falasarna. After passing the first part of the equipped and crowded beach, you will find quieter bays where you can enjoy a relaxing afternoon: we set up our tent and wait for the evening to have dinner in a little place at the top of the hill overlooking the bay, one of the most beautiful sunsets in Crete.

On the way back to Chania we come across the Church of Ioannis Prodromos, a rock church carved into the rock near the port of Kissamos. The church is located right on the side of the road and is well lit and visible as you pass by.

Day 5: Elafonissi and Omalos

We leave the room in Chania to head to Elafonissi: the sand has characteristic pink shades due to small shell fragments brought ashore by the sea. Right in front of the beach is the small island of Elafonissi which, during low tide periods is connected via a narrow strip of sand, while in others it is a real island that can be reached by walking through the knee-deep sea. We set up the tent and stop on the island for the day. At the end of the island there is a promontory where there is a lighthouse and the small chapel of Agia Irini and once you reach the top you have a beautiful view of the entire coast.

In the late afternoon we get in the car and head towards Omalos, the road is long and winding but the many goats perched on the road keep us company.