We made the choice to spend two weeks in Crete during the Covid period, when the uncertainty of a new total closure was always around the corner but the desire to travel had become a need.
It was now July and there wasn't much time left to find an economical solution for a summer trip. The objective was to find a compromise between a holiday in complete freedom and "stay safe", avoiding the tourist crowds in August. Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, is the ideal destination for those who, like us, love holidays on the road and it is the right mix of fairytale sea and uncontaminated nature to be interspersed with cultural moments. Furthermore, thanks to its size and the variety of things to do and places to see, it allowed us to enjoy two dream weeks without worrying too much.
Our expectations were fully met!
- Itinerary in a nutshell
- Day 1: Livadi Beach, Arkadi Monastery and Rethymno
- Day 2: Rethymno Fortress and Chania
- Day 3: Seitan Limania and Kalathas Beach
- Day 4: Balos and Falasarna
- Day 5: Elafonissi and Omalos
- Day 6: Samaria Gorge
- Day 7: Chora Sfakion and Skinaria beach
- Day 8: Glyka Nera and Loutro
- Day 9: Ammoudi Beaches
- Day 10: Agiofarago, Matala and Agios Nikolaos
- Day 11: Psychro and Knossos Palace
- Day 12: Chrysi Island and Ierapetra
- Day 13: Richtis Gorge and Vai Beach
- Day 14: Spinalonga Island and Heraklion
- Day 15: Departure
Itinerary in a nutshell
Our journey lasted 15 days.
Driving for 1638 km we crossed all four prefectures of Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Lassithi sleeping in Rethymno, Chania, Omalos, Chora Sfakion, Agios Nikolaos and Heraklion.
Tips for Trips: the roads of Crete – especially in the southern part – are often small and full of curves, without guardrails and unpaved. They cross mountains and drop straight into the sea, in mountain villages they are so narrow that a car can barely fit through them. Two locations that appear close on the map are not necessarily connected by an asphalt road and often navigators, not finding speed limits, indicate half the travel time actually necessary.
We enjoyed the view of the most beautiful beaches – Seitan Limania, Balos, Falasarna, Elafonissi, Skinaria, Glika Nera, Ammoùdi Beaches, Agiofarago, Vai beach – followed natural and wild paths – Samaria Gorge, Ritchis Gorge, Agiofarago Canyon – and visited Chrysi Island.
Despite the particular period - and wanting to avoid crowded places as much as possible - we wanted to dedicate a few days to the major sites of interest - Arkadi Monastery, Rethymno fortress, Psycrho, Spinalonga Island and Knossos Palace.
If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages of our journey day by day.
Day 1: Livadi Beach, Arkadi Monastery and Rethymno
We land at Heraklion airport at 11.55am. Having taken our suitcases we go to collect the car and move towards Rethymno. On the way we make our first stop at Livadi Beach where we enjoy a good Greek lunch by the sea and get to know Cretan Raki.
In the afternoon we visit Arkadi Monastery, famous for being the symbol of the Cretan resistance against the Ottomans. In 1866, almost 1000 Greeks took refuge in the monastery. After three days of siege, in order not to surrender to the Ottomans, they decided to sacrifice themselves by exploding the barrels of gunpowder, causing serious losses to the enemies. The monastery, now restored - with the exception of the powder magazine - is an oasis of peace in the mountains.
Hours: Open every day. April – May/September – October: from 9am to 7pm. June – August: from 9am to 8pm.
In the evening, after having settled in the hotel, we take a first tour of Rethymno with its pretty marina and the old town in which to enjoy dinner and a walk through the alleys full of life until late in the evening.
Day 2: Fortress of Rethymno and Chania
We dedicate ourselves to visiting the Rethymno Fortress. It was built in 1573-1580 by the Venetian commander Alvico Lanto and designed by an engineer, Pallavicini. It is located on the site of a medieval fortress which had previously been the site of the ancient acropolis of Rethymno. It is surrounded by four bastions and strong walls, its presence dominates the city. Inside there were barracks, warehouses, public buildings and a military hospital. Today there remain the remains of the Imbraem Chan mosque, a Venetian church, some warehouses and cisterns.
Hours: Open every day. April – October: from 8am to 8pm. November – March: from 10am to 5pm.
Once the visit is over we go down the alleys of the centre, full of flowers and bright colours. We stop for a good lunch in one of the many taverns that are filled with tourists.
In the afternoon we move to Chania. The historic center is a labyrinth of alleys which wind in all directions in which to walk between mosques and Orthodox churches to converge on the characteristic Venetian port. In addition to the port you can admire the Lighthouse, the symbol of the city. This imposing tower is also called the "Egyptian lighthouse" due to its reconstruction by the Egyptians in the nineteenth century. Of great importance is the Firkas Fortress, where there is the Maritime Museum and a small open-air theater. On 1 December 1913 the Greek flag was hoisted on the fortress, testifying to the independence of Crete achieved after over 260 years of Turkish rule. Finally, overlooking the western dock, is the oldest mosque in Crete: the Kioutsouk Hasan Mosque. Built by the Turks in 1645, the building was closed to worship after the reunion of Crete with Greece. It was later used as the seat of various administrative offices and, recently restored and currently used as an exhibition space for events, fairs and exhibitions.
Day 3: Seitan Limania and Kalathas Beach
Early in the morning we move towards the beach Seitan Limania (“Port of Satan”), on the Akrotiri peninsula. The incredible turquoise water makes its way through a crack in the rocks creating a natural inlet that leaves you breathless. By car you reach the free car park, after an asphalt road with four hairpin bends. From there to get to the beach you have to "climb" the rocky wall that encloses the valley. It is recommended to have comfortable shoes because the path is steep and quite rough. You just need to pay a little attention and take it calmly, Paolo also managed it.
Tips for Trips: There are 2 paths to get to the beach. We chose the one on the right because even if it was a little longer it seemed to be less steep.
After about 20 minutes of walking we arrive at the beach and all the efforts are forgotten. What appears before us is a spectacle of nature and we are enchanted. However, the beach is small and super crowded in the late morning so we only stop for a few hours and move on before lunch.
We then move on to Kalathas Beach where we have lunch overlooking the sea. In the afternoon we pitch our tent in one of the most secluded coves and relax until sunset.
Day 4: Balos and Falasarna
Wake up early and set off in the direction Balos, the best known beach in Crete and also one of the most beautiful: the sand is light with pink shades due to the shells, the water is transparent and with many different shades due to the shape of the bay which divides the sea into small pools. We decide to arrive early to avoid the crowds of tourists arriving on organized excursion ships. Early in the morning, between 9.00 and 10.00, even in high season, the beach is not very crowded.
Tips for Trips: The road to get to Balos is unpaved and exposed in some sections, with many more or less deep potholes, but it is also very wide, which can be done calmly with any car. At the entrance of the dirt road you will have to pay an entrance fee per person, and after less than 10 km you will arrive at the parking lot. From here you then follow a path and a natural staircase which will take you to the beach in about 20 minutes.
In the afternoon we move to Falasarna. After passing the first part of the equipped and crowded beach, you will find quieter bays where you can enjoy a relaxing afternoon: we set up our tent and wait for the evening to have dinner in a little place at the top of the hill overlooking the bay, one of the most beautiful sunsets in Crete.
On the way back to Chania we come across the Church of Ioannis Prodromos, a rock church carved into the rock near the port of Kissamos. The church is located right on the side of the road and is well lit and visible as you pass by.
Day 5: Elafonissi and Omalos
We leave the room in Chania to head to Elafonissi: the sand has characteristic pink shades due to small shell fragments brought ashore by the sea. Right in front of the beach is the small island of Elafonissi which, during low tide periods is connected via a narrow strip of sand, while in others it is a real island that can be reached by walking through the knee-deep sea. We set up the tent and stop on the island for the day. At the end of the island there is a promontory where there is a lighthouse and the small chapel of Agia Irini and once you reach the top you have a beautiful view of the entire coast.
In the late afternoon we get in the car and head towards Omalos, the road is long and winding but the many goats perched on the road keep us company.
Day 6: Samaria Gorge
Wake up very early, today the most awaited excursion of the trip awaits us, we will take it the Samaria Gorges within the National Park. The total route, 16 km long – 13 km inside the park and 3 km to reach the port – starts from the 1250 meter height of Omalos to the beach of Agia Roumeli, on the south coast of the island. The route is of medium difficulty and the travel time varies from 4 to 6 hours through extraordinary landscapes, you first walk through a lush forest until you reach the gorge: high rock walls that narrow up to the so-called "Iron Doors“, the most famous point of the path just 3 meters wide.
Hours: Open every day. May - October: from 7.30am to 4pm.
The park has two entrances, one upstream from the town of Omalos and one downstream from Agia Roumeli. Our excursion starts from Omalos so as to follow the downhill path: the difference in altitude is concentrated in the first half of the route, in which the path quickly descends to the river bed, while the second part is flat and crosses the gorge.
Tips for Trips: Inside the park there are several rest areas with benches, toilets and drinking water fountains, it is very useful to bring a water bottle to fill - about twenty times at least - along the route. There is no refreshment point – except at the exit of the valley route – bring some snacks with you or wait until you get to Agia Roumeli where there are many tavernas.
Arrived at Agia Roumeli we have lunch in a tavern on the port and wait for the 5.30pm ferry in the direction Sougia – there are no roads that connect Agia Roumeli to the other towns on the south coast, so from here you have to take the ferry towards Sougia/Paleochora or Chora Sfakion. The journey to Sougia takes about an hour and as soon as we arrive we hop on the first bus to Chania which stops in Omalos and takes us back to the entrance of the Park.
Day 7: Chora Sfakion and Skinaria beach
We leave Omalos and go south, for the next three nights we will stay in Chora Sfakion small village with a family atmosphere that develops around the old tourist port, full of taverns open until late.
The Sfakia area is one of the least accessible because it is surrounded by high mountains - the roads are small and steep, sometimes bumpy - and the locals, famous for their strength and resistance to invaders, still have a passion for weapons. Don't be intimidated by the bullet holes in every surface – road signs, abandoned cars or empty houses – the locals are as hospitable as on the rest of the island.
After leaving our bags in the room we take a walk around the center and have lunch in an all-blue tavern overlooking the sea. We then resume the journey and travel along the stretch of coast, between Frangokastello, with the Venetian fortress directly on the sea until you reach the beach of Skinaria Beach.
It is a small beach enclosed in a natural bay between two rock formations. Boasting crystal clear turquoise waters, it has soft grey-beige sand and fine pebbles. The surrounding area is characterized by lush vegetation that creates a tropical landscape atmosphere. What distinguishes Skinaria Beach It is its crystal clear waters and numerous fish that have made it popular and frequented by professional divers. It is also known for its peaceful and serene atmosphere. In fact, the beach is poorly equipped, there are no large structures in the area. The beach is accessible by car but driving to the beach is a bit of a challenge due to the narrow and bumpy road but the place is worth the effort.
Day 8: Glyka Nera and Loutro
We leave early in the morning to reach the port of Chora Sfakion, where we take a taxi boat that takes us to “Sweetwater beach” in 10 minutes Black Glyka, a bay so called due to the presence of fresh water that flows in small springs directly onto the beach. The cove is very suggestive, surrounded by high rock walls and the crystal clear sea. Despite the competition, in my opinion the most beautiful beach in Crete.
Before lunch we move, sip a beer in the small tavern on stilts, waiting for the second taxi boat. After another 10 minute boat ride we arrive at Loutro, a quiet fishing village accessible only by sea or on foot. The amphitheater bay is made up of a seafront of white buildings, blue windows and flowering bougainvillea.
We have lunch in a tavern on the seafront and spend the afternoon walking through the streets of the town alternating with a few swims in the cool waters of the beach at the end of the town. In the late afternoon we return to Chora Sfakion by taxi boat.
Day 9: Ammoudi Beaches
We dedicate the day to the coves east of Plakias in complete relaxation: a group of wonderful little beaches called Ammoudi Beaches. The beach of Ammoudi – equipped and lively – that of Ammoudaki – frequented mainly by naturists – Damn you – large, equipped and with several taverns on the sea – e Kleidisi – small cove nestled between the rocks.
Day 10: Agiofarago, Matala and Agios Nikolaos
The alarm goes off very early, the longest journey awaits us, we cross the island from west to east for almost 250 km until we reach Agios Nikolaos which will host us for the next four nights.
Let's stop at Agiophagus, a pebble beach that opens at the end of a canyon, surrounded by cliffs full of caves once used as sanctuaries or hermitages, the name in fact means "Throat of the Saints".
Tips for Trips: To reach the beach you must initially take a dirt road, small and bumpy but passable by all types of cars - up to a large car park. There you will find a small kiosk offering cold drinks and something to eat before venturing onto the approximately 1km route that leads to the beach, which is not equipped and has no refreshment points.
The route along the gorge is very easy, it winds through wonderful nature for 40 minutes but is mostly in the sun. Along the route there is the chapel of Agios Antonios with its bell - ringing it seems to bring good luck - and the well, the only source of water for the hermits. Continuing towards the sea, on the left is the entrance to the Goumenóspilios cave consisting of a smaller cave at the entrance and a second larger one – 9 meters high and 7 meters wide – where Saint Anthony lived. Continuing you arrive at the little-frequented beach, protected from the winds and with calm, intense blue waters. In the western part of the cove, where the coast ends sheer at the bottom of the sea, there is a small rocky arch over the sea under which you can swim.
We visit Matala, the famous hippie city. In the 1960s hippies from all over the world began to live in natural caves dug into the cliff, forming communities that also attracted famous people such as Bob Dylan and Janis Joplin. Joni Mitchell even wrote a song dedicated to this period. Through a path on the rocks, over the hill in half an hour you reach the wilderness Red Beach.
On the way north we come across a characteristic church carved into the rock, we cross the Kotsifou Canyon, a suggestive and deep gash between high mountains.
In the evening we get lost among the lights of Agios Nicolaos, a colorful mix of bars, taverns, cafes and shops. Its centre, especially beautiful at sunset or in the evening, opens around the famous Voulismeni lake which connects directly to the sea thanks to a narrow canal.
Day 11: Psychro and Palace of Knossos
Due to the uncertain weather and the risk of rain we anticipate the steps we had to do on the last day before moving to Heraklion.
Let's visit theLasithi Plateau, a vast plain of cultivated fields where some of the many windmills built at the time of the Venetian occupation remain. We get to Psychro, the main gateway to the Dikteon Cave. According to legend, Rhea hid in this cave to give birth to Zeus, far from the clutches of her father Cronos. To access the cave you have to walk for 800 meters along a steep but shaded uphill rocky path or a paved and sunny road that starts from the car park.
Hours: Open every day. April – October: from 8am to 8pm. November – October: from 8am to 3pm.
In the afternoon we visit the archaeological site of Knossos which stands on the heights of Kefala, 5 km from the center of Heraklion. Knossos is the largest of the Minoan palaces and in addition to being religious in nature, it was the political and economic center of the Minoan maritime empire. The living space included an area of approximately 20,000 m² with the accommodation of the king, the queen and the administrative officials, rooms for worship and receptions: 1300 rooms distributed over 5 floors with a very intricate plan where it is estimated that approximately 12,000 people, whose central area was made up of a dirt courtyard where the performances of gymnasts who challenged death by pirouetting on the bulls, sacred animals for the Cretans, took place, as evidenced by the numerous frescoes found in the palace.
The site, although fascinating, appears a little artificial and the guided tour is confusing. Despite its fame it left us disappointed.
Hours: Open every day. April – September: from 8am to 8pm. October: from 8am to 7pm. November – March: from 8am to 3pm.
On the way back we stop atAgios Giorgios Monastery, a Byzantine monastery where peace and silence reign. The foundation of the monastery is relatively recent and dates back to the 20th century. His housing complex, spread over two surfaces, belongs to the same era. At its eastern end is the old church of Agios Georgios, while on the western side more recent buildings have been erected and two newly built churches dedicated respectively to Theophany and the Resurrection.
Day 12: Chrysi Island and Ierapetra
In the morning we reach Ierapetra and embark for theIsland of Chrissi 8 km from the coast of Crete. In about an hour, the boat takes us to the island, famous for its tropical waters and its paradisiacal beaches where the roots of cedar trees intertwine on the pink sand. The island is completely uninhabited although there is a tavern where you can eat and a kiosk with services. The boats dock at the pier on the south coast of the island. On the opposite side of the island is located Vlychadia: red, gray and black pebbles reveal Chrissi's volcanic origin. Further on, at the western end of the island is located Kentra, a beach that is always deserted because it is too far from the dock. To the west there is Hatzivolakas, bordered by huge cedar trees. The western end where the sand thickens and takes on a darker color is called Avlaki. On the north coast Belegrina – golden beach – it is the most beautiful and popular beach in Chrissi. The water is spectacular, and is colored with shades of bright blue, emerald green and cobalt blue. The beach is entirely covered with shells of all sizes and in the easternmost part you can find fossils that are between 350,000 and 70,000 years old, dating back to when the island was still immersed in the sea. It is equipped with umbrellas and a small, decidedly expensive beach bar.
Day 13: Richtis Gorge and Vai Beach
We explore the east coast of the island starting with a trek to reach the wild Richtis Gorge: the route runs from the hinterland to the sea, and in this case starting from the village of Exo Mouliana it would require at least 2 hours of walking. We decide to drive up to Lachana Bridge and continue with the path that crosses dense, almost tropical vegetation until you reach the beautiful waterfall that characterizes the gorge. The path to get to the waterfall is not very simple and at times you have to climb rocks and hang from trees to cross the river but the feeling of wandering through wild nature is priceless. Once you arrive at the waterfall you can take a refreshing bath in the freezing water before continuing to the sea or going back towards the bridge. Furthermore, along the path there are several abandoned but very characteristic stone mills.
Trips for Trips: to get to the Lachana Bridge, follow the signs for the longest road that runs along the state road outside the village. The navigator suggests a road that cuts through the town but ends up on a road so small and bumpy that you have to leave the car in the countryside and continue on foot, adding a 15-minute walk to the route.
In the afternoon we move to the famous one Go, considered one of the most beautiful and picturesque beaches in Crete as it is surrounded by the largest palm forest in Europe, which grows naturally up to the beach. With around 6000 trees, this natural wonder greatly adds to the charm of the sandy beach, giving it an exotic charm and offering a lovely area for walking in the shade. Furthermore, next to the restaurant there is a staircase that leads to a path on the hill from which you can admire the entire coast.
Day 14: Spinalonga Island and Heraklion
We leave the room early in the morning and head towards the Island of Spinalonga, a small fortified island that was once a leper colony. To reach it you have to take the boat but the crossing takes a few minutes. Once disembarked you find yourself in front of the ancient access gates to the island. From here people accessed examination rooms where the medical staff decided in which sector of the island they would live. In the period of maximum population, the leper colony had around 400 inhabitants. Each of them could maintain their profession and so Spinalonga had commercial activities and services. The restoration of Spinalonga itself took place by their hand. Walking around the island we move away from the small village, go up the streets and go around the island. The walk along the sea is very suggestive. Climbing towards the top of the mountain you reach a flat area surrounded by ruined walls. From here you can enjoy a wonderful view.
In the afternoon we move to Heraklion, last stop of our journey. We take a tour of the center and end the evening by having dinner atAvli, a small restaurant a little hidden inside a courtyard. The place is family run, the girl came to sit at the table to tell us about the menu. His mother is in the kitchen, his father takes care of the dining room. The dishes are plentiful, with typical and tasty flavours.
Day 15: Departure
Let's take another tour of Heraklion, visit the Castle by the Sea, a majestic building that overlooks the port and the nearby Arsenal at the end of a perfect holiday in a place that enchanted us.