Island Hopping: Kos

When I think of a summer tour, almost by deformation of origin, the first thought is "sea". And by this I'm not referring to beach life (due to my complexion and my hyperactivity it doesn't really suit me, Paolino envies those who manage it!) but more to the idea of the sea air, the view of the sea, the its background noise.

The second thought is “discovery”. In our travels we like to get to know the lands we visit deeply, exploring as much as possible what a new place has to offer us, making the most of every form of discovery, be it a beach, a site, a village or a nature trail.

If there is a land that contains all this it is Greece! So map in hand we chose the combo of two Dodecanese islands, perhaps less touristy than their more famous sisters (not that much though), but full of beauty, nature and history: Rhodes and Kos.

In this second article I will tell you about Kos, island of Hippocrates – father of modern medicine – is the third largest island of the Dodecanese. The island is not just sea, but a glimpse into traditional Greece thanks to its inland villages and sites of historical importance, the Asklepeion above all.

If you haven't already, read part one Rhodes.

Complete itinerary in a nutshell

Our trip lasted 15 days, not considering the day of arrival in Rhodes (late afternoon) and departure from Kos (in the morning).

The second part of our “Island hopping” a Kos it lasted 7 days, traveling 422 km and sleeping in Kos town. We rested at the most famous beaches – Tigaki Beach, Mastichari Beach, Paradise Beach, Agios Stefanos Beach, Limnionas Beach, Paralia Paradisos, Agios Fokas and Therma Beach – and visited the major places of historical interest – Kos Old Town, Asklepeion, Castle of Palaio Pyli, Antimachia Castle, Kefalos Castle, the village of Zia and the Mylotopi of Kefalos-. The wild nature of the island has given us unforgettable places and views - Mount Dikeos, Lake Alikes, Plaka Forest and the islet of Kastri -.

TipsforTrips: To get from one island to another we used the ferry. In summer, there are up to 3 crossings per day: the first ferry leaves at 08:00 and arrives around 10:20; the last ferry is around 5pm and reaches Kos at 8.25pm. The route is operated by Blue Star Ferries and Dodekanisos Seaways companies with conventional and high-speed ferries.

It is possible to take your car on ferries but it is necessary to book a ticket due to limited places, especially in summer. However, we preferred to rent 2 separate cars so as to save the cost of the ticket and we organized the stages in order to save ourselves three days of rental.

Kos

Day 1: Kos Old Town and Askepleion

We arrive in Kos mid-morning. Just enough time to put the suitcases in the room and make a tactical change of outfit - for the ferry we preferred to wear long trousers and a sweatshirt, the air conditioning won't kill us - and we are ready to leave again.

Kos Town it is a lively town, rich in culture, history and art. It is an open-air museum and simply walking through its streets you can admire the ruins of various eras surrounded by countless taverns, clubs and shops. Being rich in more or less beautiful and well-preserved ruins and archaeological sites, you risk following the signs for what could then turn out to be an unkempt meadow with little or nothing to see.

Below is a list of sites that we think are worth a visit:

• Roman Odeon: ancient Roman theater from the 2nd century AD was one of the most important public buildings in the past as it was used as the seat of the local senate as well as to host musical events. Under the steps there are two semicircular porticoes and a series of galleries once decorated with marble statues placed in niches. Entrance is free.
• Eastern archaeological site: it is located in the centre, behind Eleftherias square and includes the ruins of temple of Aphrodite, of the temple of Heracles, the fortifications of the ancient city and theancient Agora. Entrance is free.
• Western archaeological site: it is located in the upper part of the ancient city – on the Leofóros Grigoríou street – and includes the Sanctuary of the Nymphs, the ruins of an ancient gymnasium, the House of Europe – mosaic depicting the abduction of Europa by Zeus – a stadium and the ruins of the baths. Entrance is free.
• Roman house: It is a well-preserved Roman mansion with impressive mosaics and frescoes. It consists of 36 rooms and three large atriums which were originally a source of light and air for the surrounding rooms. It offers an insight into daily life during Roman times and showcases the artistry of those times.
• Turkish bath: Historic structure dating back to the Ottoman period. It is a traditional hammam that reflects the culture and hygiene practices of the Ottoman era.
• Hippocratic plane tree: it was the tree under whose branches the teacher Hippocrates taught his students the art of medicine. Today it is supported by scaffolding to keep it standing and not let it collapse (the tree is around 600 years old). The tree has witnessed centuries of history and is considered the descendant of the original Sycamore and is an icon of Kos Town;
• Neratzia Castle: located east of the port of Mandraki, it was a fortress useful in guaranteeing various peoples, Christian pilgrims and travelers en route to the Holy Land, the safety of a place to stop and find refreshment.

After a refreshing break in the alleys of the port we collected the rented car and almost at sunset we moved to one of the most magical places in Kos: the archaeological site of Asklepieion, just 3 km from Kos Town.

L'Asklepieion it was founded in the 3rd century BC and discovered only at the beginning of the 20th century. A unique place that witnessed very important events at the center of which was the legendary Hippocrates, father of medicine and famous Greek doctor, geographer and aphorist. Here he founded a medical school and a health center. Today you can admire the propylaea, the patient rooms, the public baths, the altar of Apollo Kyparissios, the related temple and finally the two temples of Asclepius - a famous character from Greek mythology, a demigod who later became a particularly adored god of medicine from the people from whom this place takes its name -.

Hours: every day. From 8:00 to 20:00.

Day 2: Palaio Pyli Castle, Mount Dikeos and Zia

Today we dedicate ourselves to an excursion in the hinterland of Kos.

Let's start with a visit to Palaio Pyli, one of the most important Byzantine historical sites on the island of Kos. The settlement is located on the western side of the Dikaios mountain range at a height of approximately 300 meters above sea level. It covers a very large area and within it there are many paved streets, abandoned houses, a Turkish bath and the Monastery of Saint Mary Kastrianon. The houses of this settlement were protected by walls that date back to the 11th century and enclosed the hillside at various heights. The ends of the arched vault of the collapsed entrance are still visible, with two decorative brick vaulted niches on either side of the gate. The entire settlement constituted a peculiar fortress which was abandoned by its inhabitants around 1830, after a decimating cholera epidemic.

At the top of the hill are the remains of the Palaio Pyli fortress which was built in the 11th-12th century. It is the oldest castle in Kos and was inhabited until the beginning of the 19th century. The castle is built of limestone and igneous rock and the use of bricks is unique throughout the Dodecanese. The castle was very well fortified and the inaccessibility of the place protected it from enemy attacks. During the 15th century and under the threat of a Turkish invasion, the castle was often used as a refuge for the people of the area and for the population of the city of Kos. By 1461 it was the only garrisoned castle remaining and the fortifications were improved while ammunition was accumulated. The castle, however, was severely damaged in the 1493 earthquake and eventually fell to the Ottomans in 1523. Parts of the castle were restored by the Ottomans but the area was abandoned in the early 19th century due to an epidemic.

We move to Aunt, a very characteristic village located in the center of the island, known for its relaxing atmosphere and panoramic position. This charming village is located on the western side of the island, amidst lush vegetation, and offers spectacular panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.

From here we begin a path that takes us to the top of the Mount Dikeos – 846 m – the highest on the island of Kos. The route is 7 km long, with a difference in altitude of 476 meters and takes approximately 3 hours - there and back -. The difficulty level is intermediate, with a little attention it is doable for everyone.

From the village of Zia, through a stone staircase, you reach a slightly uphill dirt road. After about half an hour the real path begins, well signposted, towards the top. The first part of the route passes through a dense cypress forest. The higher you go, the sparser the vegetation and in some places the mountain slope is very steep and at times you almost have to climb. The last 20 minutes are totally exposed to the sun and on the final straight towards the top you need to be careful as there is a steep cliff next to the path. The view, however, is worth the trip, you can see the island of Kos from above, the sea and the surrounding islands. At the top you can also reach the large Greek flag, the small church dedicated to Christ and the Orthodox Cross. We recommend leaving with a decent supply of water because there are no refreshment points along the route.

We return to Aunt and we get lost in its alleys. The village itself features cobbled streets, traditional houses with red tile roofs and a central square with local cafes and shops. Here you can buy artisanal products, such as honey, olive oil and traditional souvenirs. One of Zia's main attractions is its spectacular sunset, considered one of the best on the island. Tourists gather at the village's scenic taverns to enjoy a sunset dinner, taking in the spectacular view as the sun disappears behind the horizon. We try too but the sultriness and heat of August spread a veil over the horizon which inhibits any view so we dedicate ourselves to good food and good wine until the evening.

Day 3: Alikes Lake, Tigaki Beach and Mastichari Beach

Today's first stop is Alikes Lake, a unique natural destination on the island of Kos. This brackish lake is known for its natural beauty and ecological importance, as it is home to numerous species of migratory birds. Surrounded by a vast area of vegetation, you can stroll along hiking trails, admire wildlife and enjoy tranquility in nature. You can also rent a bike and cycle around the lake for a different perspective.

NB Unfortunately, summer is certainly not the best time to visit the place. The lake is dried up and dirty, the paths around it are muddy and you risk ending up in pitchy "quicksand" - which clearly happened to me, ending up with my feet up to my knees in a black, salty slush that irritated my stomach. skin and particularly entertained Paolino -.

Mid-morning we move to the nearby one Tigaki Beach. Ten kilometers of coastline with soft white sand bordered by green maritime pines and tamarisks, washed by a clean and transparent sea with turquoise blue colours. It is well equipped, beaches with sunbeds and umbrellas where you can lie down comfortably and behind it are typical taverns where you can taste the delicious dishes of Greek and international cuisine, pubs, bars and cafes. We stop for lunch but move on immediately afterwards.

In the afternoon we relax at Mastichari Beach. Its white sand beach is among the largest on the island of Kos and extends for km, alternating areas equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas with completely free and wild areas where you can shelter from the sun under shrubs and tamarisks. Behind these sand dunes, there is a beautiful paved road where you can walk and admire the entire coast for a walk at sunset.

Day 4: Antimachia Castle, Kardamaina, Plaka Forest and Paradise Beach

Let's start the day with a visit to the beautiful Antimachia Castle. The fortress was built in the 14th century by the Grand Master of the Order of St. John. The fort was almost completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1493, but was rebuilt a year later by the Grand Master of the time. The door of the current entrance to the complex was equipped with an additional semicircular bastion at the beginning of the 16th century, an advanced point of defense for the fortress. The outer walls and entrance area of the fortress are well preserved. Inside the fortress is the small church of Agios Nikolaos and the church Agia Paraskevi. Of the remaining buildings, only the foundation walls of the others are visible. At the beginning of the 19th century the inhabitants abandoned the fortress settlement and settled in nearby Antimáchia.

For lunch we move to the small village of Kardamaina, along the southern coast of the island. The main attraction is its beach but on the seafront there are many taverns, bars and cafes where you can taste delicious Greek dishes and refresh yourself with tasty drinks. After lunch we enjoy a walk through the alleys of the town full of shops and do a bit of shopping.

We spend the late afternoon at Paradise Beach, one of the best known beaches of Kos thanks to its very fine golden sand and its very clear water that slopes gently. The whole beach of Paradise Beach it is equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas and behind it has both a large panoramic restaurant for a real lunch, and a beach bar on the beach that serves quick snacks (sandwiches, burgers, salads, ice creams and cold drinks) to be enjoyed comfortably under the Beach umbrella. A portion of the sea is called Bubble Beach. Its name derives from the fact that Kos being volcanic, small sulphurous bubbles emerge from the seabed, creating a play of bubbles in the water making it look like a natural hydromassage tub.

Day 5: Castle of Kefalos, Mylotopi, Agios Stefanos Beach and Kastri

We head south, to discover the Kefalos peninsula. On the way we come across the Plaka Forest, a pine forest full of colorful animals that run around in uncontaminated nature. The area is full of peacocks accustomed to the presence of humans, lots of dozing cats that coexist with turtles and squirrels. There Plaka Forest it is full of pine trees, the clean and fresh water comes from a spring and with numerous paths for endless walks. There are benches where guests can rest or even eat as it is an ideal place for picnic and barbecue lovers.

Let's stop at Kefalos Castle, an ancient fortress, dating back to the Byzantine period, located on the top of a hill overlooking the picturesque village of Kefalos. Very little remains of the original castle but the place is striking for its stupendous view of the gulf

Not far away is the Mylotopes, a charming place built near an ancient mill with a splendid view of the surrounding area. You can visit the inside of the mill, the replica of an ancient living room and the oven still in use today. At the end of the tour you will receive a small non-alcoholic cinnamon drink and a bite of homemade bread. We stayed for lunch, the view and the tranquility of the place made us very happy.

After lunch we move to the very particular beach of Agios Stefanos, one of my favorite beaches in Kos. Enclosed in a small inlet of soft sand, washed by a crystalline sea with often calm waters.

The absolute beauty of the beach is the scenic setting Kastri islet which stands about 200 meters in the middle of the sea right in front of the coast. The islet can be reached by swimming and by climbing the cliff you can reach the small white and blue church. Legend has it that by ringing the chapel bell three times and making a wish, the chances of it coming true are very high. Behind the church there is also a small path that leads to the foot of an imposing rock mass that can be climbed, from the top the view offers a spectacular panorama over the entire cove. The experience is 100% adrenaline-filled and exciting, I definitely recommend it as a must do on the island of Kos.

But the particularities of the beach are not over since right on the beach, secluded on a cliff are the ruins of the Early Christian Basilica of Saint Etienne which at sunset give a magical and strongly positive atmosphere. Behind the beach there is a small kiosk (in Greek they are called Kantina, practically a caravan used as a stall) where you can find something fresh to drink and something quick to eat.

Day 6: Limnionas Beach and Paralia Paradisos

We dedicate the day to the sea. Let's start from Limnionas Beach, very quiet beach and little frequented by mass tourism. The beach is made up of two coves divided by a strip of land. The right side is equipped with a few sunbeds and umbrellas, while the left side is completely free and wild. Right in front of the beach you can see the nearby island of Kalymnos famous for its natural sponges. Behind the beach there is a tavern overlooking the coast where you can eat fresh fish and traditional Greek dishes.

In the afternoon we move to Paralia Paradisos, also called Cavo Paradisos Beach, – my favorite beach in Kos -, beautiful and wild as hell! It is located on the most extreme tip of the island and getting there is truly an adventure but it is absolutely worth it. You cross the entire Kefalos peninsula, immersing yourself in large gorges and almost lunar landscapes, with chromatic variations of the terrain: from the white of the limestone, to the yellow of the clay, to the red of hematite and goethite, to the black of the volcanic earth. The beach is a long and wide stretch of sand with a few boulders on the shoreline that range from golden to white to pink reflections and a turquoise blue sea with clear, crystalline waters. Behind it are high white rock walls that create a beautiful contrast with the surrounding spectacle. It is equipped with a few sunbeds and umbrellas, while a large part is free. A small kiosk converted from a caravan offers something to drink and snack on, even if the music is too loud sometimes ruins the atmosphere but otherwise only wild and uncontaminated nature.

Day 7: Agios Fokas and Therma Beach

The last day is also dedicated to the sea, we stay close to Kos city and enjoy the last bit of relaxation of this splendid holiday.

Agios Fokas it is a stretch of beach with small pebbles, an extremely clean sea and a seabed with intense blue waters up to the blue. Opposite, the Turkish coasts of Dacia are so close that it seems you can touch them. The whole coast is full of clubs and taverns where you can have lunch by the sea.

In the afternoon we move to Therma Beach, a very particular beach thanks to its natural thermal waters that flow directly from the sea. The beach is characterized by dark sand and pebbles but is made extraordinary by the hot thermal springs that mix with the sea water, creating a natural thermal pool directly in the sea. The thermal waters, rich in sulphur, potassium, calcium and magnesium, boil with temperatures that vary between 42 and 50°C. This combination of natural elements creates a true outdoor spa, ideal for relaxing and pampering yourself until sunset.

TipsforTrips: Be careful when bringing silver objects with you because the hot waters rich in sulfur tend to oxidize it, creating a very dark patina of silver sulphide. Fortunately, you can reverse the reaction with a little baking soda.

In the evening we enjoy a last walk through the alleys of Kos, our suitcases are already packed, full of all this beauty. Even in this adventure, Greece does not disappoint us, confirming that even outside Italy you can feel at home!

Last Updated on 20 December 2024