Island Hopping: Kos

When I think of a summer tour, almost by deformation of origin, the first thought is "sea". And by this I'm not referring to beach life (due to my complexion and my hyperactivity it doesn't really suit me, Paolino envies those who manage it!) but more to the idea of the sea air, the view of the sea, the its background noise.

The second thought is “discovery”. In our travels we like to get to know the lands we visit deeply, exploring as much as possible what a new place has to offer us, making the most of every form of discovery, be it a beach, a site, a village or a nature trail.

If there is a land that contains all this it is Greece! So map in hand we chose the combo of two Dodecanese islands, perhaps less touristy than their more famous sisters (not that much though), but full of beauty, nature and history: Rhodes and Kos.

In this second article I will tell you about Kos, island of Hippocrates – father of modern medicine – is the third largest island of the Dodecanese. The island is not just sea, but a glimpse into traditional Greece thanks to its inland villages and sites of historical importance, the Asklepeion above all.

If you haven't already, read part one Rhodes.

Complete itinerary in a nutshell

Our trip lasted 15 days, not considering the day of arrival in Rhodes (late afternoon) and departure from Kos (in the morning).

The second part of our “Island hopping” a Kos it lasted 7 days, traveling 422 km and sleeping in Kos town. We rested at the most famous beaches – Tigaki Beach, Mastichari Beach, Paradise Beach, Agios Stefanos Beach, Limnionas Beach, Paralia Paradisos, Agios Fokas and Therma Beach – and visited the major places of historical interest – Kos Old Town, Asklepeion, Castle of Palaio Pyli, Antimachia Castle, Kefalos Castle, the village of Zia and the Mylotopi of Kefalos-. The wild nature of the island has given us unforgettable places and views - Mount Dikeos, Lake Alikes, Plaka Forest and the islet of Kastri -.

TipsforTrips: To get from one island to another we used the ferry. In summer, there are up to 3 crossings per day: the first ferry leaves at 08:00 and arrives around 10:20; the last ferry is around 5pm and reaches Kos at 8.25pm. The route is operated by Blue Star Ferries and Dodekanisos Seaways companies with conventional and high-speed ferries.

It is possible to take your car on ferries but it is necessary to book a ticket due to limited places, especially in summer. However, we preferred to rent 2 separate cars so as to save the cost of the ticket and we organized the stages in order to save ourselves three days of rental.

Kos

Day 1: Kos Old Town and Askepleion

We arrive in Kos mid-morning. Just enough time to put the suitcases in the room and make a tactical change of outfit - for the ferry we preferred to wear long trousers and a sweatshirt, the air conditioning won't kill us - and we are ready to leave again.

Kos Town it is a lively town, rich in culture, history and art. It is an open-air museum and simply walking through its streets you can admire the ruins of various eras surrounded by countless taverns, clubs and shops. Being rich in more or less beautiful and well-preserved ruins and archaeological sites, you risk following the signs for what could then turn out to be an unkempt meadow with little or nothing to see.

Below is a list of sites that we think are worth a visit:

• Roman Odeon: ancient Roman theater from the 2nd century AD was one of the most important public buildings in the past as it was used as the seat of the local senate as well as to host musical events. Under the steps there are two semicircular porticoes and a series of galleries once decorated with marble statues placed in niches. Entrance is free.
• Eastern archaeological site: it is located in the centre, behind Eleftherias square and includes the ruins of temple of Aphrodite, of the temple of Heracles, the fortifications of the ancient city and theancient Agora. Entrance is free.
• Western archaeological site: it is located in the upper part of the ancient city – on the Leofóros Grigoríou street – and includes the Sanctuary of the Nymphs, the ruins of an ancient gymnasium, the House of Europe – mosaic depicting the abduction of Europa by Zeus – a stadium and the ruins of the baths. Entrance is free.
• Roman house: It is a well-preserved Roman mansion with impressive mosaics and frescoes. It consists of 36 rooms and three large atriums which were originally a source of light and air for the surrounding rooms. It offers an insight into daily life during Roman times and showcases the artistry of those times.
• Turkish bath: Historic structure dating back to the Ottoman period. It is a traditional hammam that reflects the culture and hygiene practices of the Ottoman era.
• Hippocratic plane tree: it was the tree under whose branches the teacher Hippocrates taught his students the art of medicine. Today it is supported by scaffolding to keep it standing and not let it collapse (the tree is around 600 years old). The tree has witnessed centuries of history and is considered the descendant of the original Sycamore and is an icon of Kos Town;
• Neratzia Castle: located east of the port of Mandraki, it was a fortress useful in guaranteeing various peoples, Christian pilgrims and travelers en route to the Holy Land, the safety of a place to stop and find refreshment.

After a refreshing break in the alleys of the port we collected the rented car and almost at sunset we moved to one of the most magical places in Kos: the archaeological site of Asklepieion, just 3 km from Kos Town.

L'Asklepieion it was founded in the 3rd century BC and discovered only at the beginning of the 20th century. A unique place that witnessed very important events at the center of which was the legendary Hippocrates, father of medicine and famous Greek doctor, geographer and aphorist. Here he founded a medical school and a health center. Today you can admire the propylaea, the patient rooms, the public baths, the altar of Apollo Kyparissios, the related temple and finally the two temples of Asclepius - a famous character from Greek mythology, a demigod who later became a particularly adored god of medicine from the people from whom this place takes its name -.

Hours: every day. From 8:00 to 20:00.

Day 2: Palaio Pyli Castle, Mount Dikeos and Zia

Today we dedicate ourselves to an excursion in the hinterland of Kos.

Let's start with a visit to Palaio Pyli, one of the most important Byzantine historical sites on the island of Kos. The settlement is located on the western side of the Dikaios mountain range at a height of approximately 300 meters above sea level. It covers a very large area and within it there are many paved streets, abandoned houses, a Turkish bath and the Monastery of Saint Mary Kastrianon. The houses of this settlement were protected by walls that date back to the 11th century and enclosed the hillside at various heights. The ends of the arched vault of the collapsed entrance are still visible, with two decorative brick vaulted niches on either side of the gate. The entire settlement constituted a peculiar fortress which was abandoned by its inhabitants around 1830, after a decimating cholera epidemic.

At the top of the hill are the remains of the Palaio Pyli fortress which was built in the 11th-12th century. It is the oldest castle in Kos and was inhabited until the beginning of the 19th century. The castle is built of limestone and igneous rock and the use of bricks is unique throughout the Dodecanese. The castle was very well fortified and the inaccessibility of the place protected it from enemy attacks. During the 15th century and under the threat of a Turkish invasion, the castle was often used as a refuge for the people of the area and for the population of the city of Kos. By 1461 it was the only garrisoned castle remaining and the fortifications were improved while ammunition was accumulated. The castle, however, was severely damaged in the 1493 earthquake and eventually fell to the Ottomans in 1523. Parts of the castle were restored by the Ottomans but the area was abandoned in the early 19th century due to an epidemic.