Island Hopping: Rhodes

When I think of a summer tour, almost by deformation of origin, the first thought is "sea". And by this I'm not referring to beach life (due to my complexion and my hyperactivity it doesn't really suit me, Paolino envies those who manage it!) but more to the idea of the sea air, the view of the sea, the its background noise.

The second thought is “discovery”. In our travels we like to get to know the lands we visit deeply, exploring as much as possible what a new place has to offer us, making the most of every form of discovery, be it a beach, a site, a village or a nature trail.

If there is a land that contains all this it is Greece! So map in hand we chose the combo of two Dodecanese islands, perhaps less touristy than their more famous sisters (not that much though), but full of beauty, nature and history: Rhodes and Kos.

In this first article we tell you about Rhodes, Island of the Colossus – one of the seven wonders of the classical world – is the largest island of the Dodecanese, just 17 km from the Turkish coast. Visiting Rhodes means combining crystal clear sea, wild and uncontaminated nature and ancient and fascinating history that passes through the discovery of the Italian Archaeological School of Athens.

Itinerary in a nutshell

Our trip lasted 15 days, not considering the day of arrival in Rhodes (late afternoon) and departure from Kos (in the morning).

We have dedicated to Rhodes 8 days, traveling 570km up and down the island based in Lindos for 4 days and Rhodes Town for the remaining 4. We were able to enjoy some of the most beautiful beaches on the island – Agios Pavlos Beach, Red Sand Beach, Kallithea Beach , Kopria Beach and Antony Quinn Bay – and splendid oases and natural sites – The Forest of Seven Springs, The Valley of Butterflies, Kallithea Thermae and Jacob's Canyon – with an eye to the archaeological beauties that inevitably surprise us in Greece – Acropolis of Lindos, Site of Kamiros, Kritinia Castle, Feraklos Castle, Rhodes Old Town and Monolithos Castle -. We visited Symi with a day trip, traveling by ship with an excursion to St George beach; we booked an organized package but we do not recommend it and we will explain why later;

TipsforTrips: To get from one island to another we used the ferry. In summer, there are up to 3 crossings per day: the first ferry leaves at 08:00 and arrives around 10:20; the last ferry is around 5pm and reaches Kos at 8.25pm. The route is operated by Blue Star Ferries and Dodekanisos Seaways companies with conventional and high-speed ferries.

It is possible to take your car on ferries but it is necessary to book a ticket due to limited places, especially in summer. However, we preferred to rent 2 separate cars so as to save the cost of the ticket and we organized the stages in order to save ourselves three days of rental.

Rhodes

Day 1: Jacob's canyon, Monolithos Castle and Prasonisi Beach

The first day starts with a visit to the spectacular Jacob's Canyon, a narrow gorge surrounded by high stratified rock walls and warm, magnetic colors. The initial part of the route is accessible to everyone, there is some climbing on the walls or rocks but it is quite simple even for the untrained. The landscape around is beautiful, it is a stop that deserves to be visited.

TipsforTrips: From here you can begin a circular trekking route almost 7 km long. The route begins by crossing the entire gorge and continues along narrow paths between lush vegetation and an enchanting forest, until it reaches the top of the mountain. from which you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the islands of Halki and Alimia emerging from the blue Aegean Sea. Trekking through the canyon can be challenging at times, at times you have to climb very exposed walls to proceed but it is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating and characteristic routes on the island. The descent from the summit is easy and does not require particular attention, allowing you to fully enjoy the extraordinary panorama.

We move to Monolithos Castle, a historic medieval fortress built around 1480 by the Knights of St. John as an observation point of the south-western area of the island. It was for a long time an important place for sighting and defense, so much so that it always remained unconquered. Today only ruins remain of the Castle. Its peculiarity is its position, it is located on top of a rocky hill overlooking the Aegean Sea, reachable on foot thanks to a staircase cut into the rock. From the top you can enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the west coast of Rhodes and the surrounding islands, including Halki and Alimia. Inside the Fortress Castello there were two chapels dedicated to San Giorgio and San Pantaleo. Only the latter (Agios Panteleimon) is currently standing, visitable and equipped for worship.

Prasonisi Beach it is an extraordinary beach located at the southern end of the island. What makes it so unique is its geography. The beach is a thin sandy strip of land that extends into the Aegean Sea and divides the sea into two parts: on the one hand, the calm, shallow waters of the Adriatic, and on the other, the stronger waves of the Aegean Sea. This configuration makes Prasonisi a paradise for lovers of water sports, in particular windsurfing and kitesurfing.

Prassonissi in Greek it means Green Island because in the winter the storms, the winds and the tide completely cover the strip of beach that connects the two strips of land and causes it to transform in all respects from a peninsula to an island. We decide to take a walk on the green island and get to the Prassonissi lighthouse, erected in 1890 and fourteen meters high. Once you have crossed the sandy strip you must continue along a dirt road for about two kilometres: climbing up to the top of the promontory and descending to the outermost point where the lighthouse is located. The view is truly enchanting and surprising especially at sunset, and will repay you for the effort.

Day 2: Kamiros Archaeological Site, Kopria Beach and Kritinia Castle

Waking up early, we cross the heart of the island and move to the opposite coast until we reach the site Archaeological site of Kamiros.

Kamiros it was an ancient Doric city that flourished between the 7th and 3rd centuries BC. The ruins found on the site today include ancient streets, dwellings, a temple dedicated to Athena, an acropolis, and a well-preserved water supply system. What makes Kamiros unique is its advanced urban planning for its time, with houses arranged on terraces and sophisticated water distribution through aqueducts. The site offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the history of ancient Greece and understand how people lived and organized themselves during this period. You also enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the coast and the Aegean Sea.

Hours: every day. From 08:00 to 19:40.

For lunch we move to Kopria Beach. The beach is enclosed between two very white cliffs - where you can also walk and take a dip - which embrace the coastline made up of pebbles and bathed by a crystal-clear blue sea, creating a surprising contrast. The atmosphere is quiet and relaxed because, not being very well known, it is practically only frequented by the local population. It is equipped with completely free sunbeds and umbrellas and a small tavern behind it where you can eat and drink simple dishes of classic Greek cuisine.

In the late afternoon we move again for the last stop of the day, about 2 kilometers from the beach there is the Kritinia Castle.

The Kritinia Castle it is a medieval castle that stands majestically on the top of a hill with panoramic views of the Aegean Sea. Its mighty walls and imposing towers bear witness to its long and fascinating history. The castle was built by the Knights of St. John during the medieval period, and its strategic position made it a crucial defense point against enemy incursions. Today only the ruins of the ancient castle remain but all around you can enjoy a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside and the sea. The castle can be reached via a stepped path that is not at all challenging. In the evening it is illuminated making it very suggestive and surrounded by that aura of mystery typical of castles. The castle is always open.

Day 3: Cape Archangelos Beach, Red Sand Beach, Agathi Beach and Feraklos Castle

Today is a day dedicated to the beaches, let's start from Cape Archangelos Beach and the Red Sand Beach, two small secret coves with incredible colours, will leave you breathless!

The famous one of the "two sisters" is the Red Sand Beach which however they say can only be reached by boat or kyak as it is surrounded by high cliffs. By studying the coast well, however, we discovered that there is a way to reach it by land and that is by passing through the Cape Archangelos Beach, the “unknown sister”. The path to reach them is not simple but nothing impossible if you love a bit of adventure!

To get to Cape Archangelos Beach just follow the directions of the navigator which will take you to the dirt road that leads to the beach car park, indicated on Google as "Parkplatz zum Strand". The last stretch of road is quite rough so, not very sure of the performance of our car, we stopped at the top of the hill and continued on foot. From the car park there is a small path on the edge of the cliff, exposed but not dangerous, which ends with a stone staircase carved into the rock. At the end of the staircase, continue on the right and "climb" some large boulders to reach the beach.

Cape Archangelos Beach it is surrounded by high rock walls, the sand has shades of red, the sea is crystal clear and the large trees that edge the beach offer shelter from the sun. For me it absolutely wins the award for the most beautiful beach in Rhodes!

In the late morning morning we move to the Red Sand Beach. There is no real path to get there, you have to cross the rocky coast that separates the two coves. The advice is to cross it by heading upwards where the coast is steeper but the route is easier, comparable to a mountain path, and then go back down once you reach the other beach. Below there are only fairly high rocks which in some cases cannot be circumvented but must be climbed.

There Red Sand Beach it is a very small cove of bright red sand surrounded by high rocky walls but there is no vegetation to offer shelter. Being better known, it is crowded with boats and kayak groups throughout the day. We stop long enough to catch our breath, play with the goats who are the undisputed masters here and after a nice swim we go back.

TipsforTrips: both beaches are not equipped and have no refreshment points so it is recommended to have plenty of water and bring a packed lunch. For those who love relaxing on the beach I recommend spending the whole day there Cape Archangelos Beach and just take a short hike to the Red Sand Beach. It should also be considered that, being surrounded by very high walls, the beaches remain totally in the shade in mid-afternoon.

We then move on to Agathi Beach to end the day. Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Rhodes - a bit excessive in our opinion - it boasts soft golden sand, a crystal clear sea with gently sloping waters. The beach is equipped with comfortable sunbeds and umbrellas, as well as very nice places where you can have a drink and eat fresh fish directly on the beach. Reaching the beach is very simple, just follow the road signs. Upon arrival you find yourself in front of a large free car park and immediately after the beach set in a very particular basin.

TipsforTrips: To get to the beach DO NOT follow the Google directions in the final stretch, which will make you deviate from the main road onto a bumpy dirt road with very narrow vegetation along the sides! The beach is well signposted with signs and directions, follow those and you will arrive via the easiest road.

Last gem of the day is the Feraklos Castle. This impressive castle, built on the site of an ancient Acropolis, has a rich history. Initially used by pirates, it was later adapted to the needs of the Knights of St. John, who reinforced it and transformed it into a prison. Although only the remains of the external walls remain and the structure is in a state of decay - inside the brambles and shrubs have taken over - its majesty captures attention from afar, especially at night when the ruins are evocative and illuminated . Furthermore, thanks to its position, perched on a rocky hill 300 meters above sea level, it offers a spectacular view overlooking the splendid Agathi beach and the village of Haraki. Reaching the top of the castle is not tiring but you need to pay a little attention as the route, poorly signposted, is not immediately visible.

Day 4: Acropolis of Lindos, Paralia Agios Pavlos and Antony Quinn Bay

We wake up early in the morning and dedicate ourselves to discovering Lindos, the first stop is the marvelous Acropolis.

L'Acropolis of Lindos it is located on a hill overlooking the sea at a height of 116 meters.

TipsforTrips: To get to the top there are two possible ways. The first part from the alleys of the center is mostly made of steps and is sheltered by trees. The road circumnavigates the cliff and offers a breathtaking view of the village and the cove - we choose it on the outward journey -. The second is more external, paved but exposed to the sun but is accompanied by a splendid view of the sea and Agios Pavlos – we follow it on the way back. For the climb, comfortable shoes, water and a hat are essential! Once you get to the top there is a kiosk well stocked with fresh drinks and snacks.

As in many places in Greece, there is the possibility of reaching the top on the back of a donkey but we have good legs and prefer to spare him this effort.

The peculiarity of the Acropolis is the numerous archaeological remains found in the area. There are not only remains from the Greek era, but also monuments dating back to the Middle Ages, such as the Castle of the Knights of Rhodes, built in the 14th and then restored during the Italian occupation, in the first half of the 20th century. A church from the Byzantine era enriches the complex, bearing witness to the first centuries of Christianity, while a series of columns built in the 3rd century BC complete the historical picture with fragments from the Hellenistic period: these are in fact the remains of an ancient portico, or Stoà, dating back to Greek presence on the island.

Hours: every day. From 08:00 to 20:00.

We return down the alleys of Lindos, a small village made up of narrow alleys - where only pedestrians can circulate - and low, blindingly white houses perched on the cliff. Everything is surrounded by a beautiful bay to the north and a small beach to the south. Walking through this charming village gives you the flavor of ancient Greece. To keep this atmosphere intact, no structural changes can be made to the buildings Lindos, many of which date back to the 15th century. The distinctive feature of the town are certainly the wonderful typical taverns with tables set up on the panoramic terraces which light up in the evening giving the town a magical atmosphere. Don't miss it Church of the Panagia, in the center of the town which preserves wonderful frescoes and icons from the 17th century.

After lunch we stop to admire the bay of Agios Pavlos. The bay is made up of two small beaches surrounded by high rocks to form a swimming pool, both made of soft golden sand mixed with gravel, clear, transparent waters of turquoise and emerald colour. On the beach there is a beautiful chapel dedicated to Agios Pavlos (Saint Paul). Given its fame the beach is overcrowded and full of boats, as we expected, we take some photos and move on to the next stop.

We leave Lindos and its wonderful beauty that made us fall in love, for the next few days we will base ourselves on Rhodes city.

On the way we stop at the very famous one Antony Quinn Bay. The bay, originally called Vagies Bay, owes its current name to the actor Anthony Quinn who was so struck by its beauty that he decided to buy it and give it his name. When he returned it to the island in 1990, in his honor, the same name was kept. The bay boasts one of the most beautiful landscapes on the island: its seabed of sand and rocks, its crystal clear sea and the pine trees that frame it give it a picturesque setting! The beach is very small so the advice is to arrive very early in the morning or, as we preferred, very late in the afternoon. Behind it there is an excellent restaurant with a spectacular view of the cove which takes on a magical light in the moonlight.

Day 5: Epta Piges, Tsambika Beach and Church of the Virgin Mary Tsambika

Today we dedicate ourselves to an excursion in the hinterland of Rhodes. Epta Piges it is an authentic oasis, characterized by well-maintained paths, wooden bridges and walkways where peacocks and various wild birds live freely. The Seven Sources, from which this location takes its name, are located a short distance from each other but in summer they are really difficult to find. These merge into a single river that flows through an incredibly narrow tunnel, finally flowing into a lake created by a dam in 1931 where the water transforms into a beautiful waterfall. The most particular attraction is this underground tunnel, 180 meters long, which leads from the river to the lake. The water inside the tunnel reaches our ankles and once inside we proceed in single file. NB This route is not suitable for those suffering from claustrophobia, as it is narrow and dark. However, you can reach the lake by following a path through the forest, enjoying a beautiful walk in nature. In the innermost part of Epta Piges, there is a small tavern offering Greek and local specialties.

After lunch we move to Tsambika Beach, famous for its golden sand and the crystal clear waters of the Aegean Sea. Along the beach, there are numerous beach clubs and traditional taverns, but the interesting part is that you can try tons of water sports here. We've wanted for a very long time - and by wanted I mean wanted - to do parasailing and so we decide to give it a try.

We are ready, we harness ourselves and the boat accelerates. The parachute gradually lifts and takes us away from the boat, the feeling of flying is indescribable. We find ourselves suspended in the air, lifted by the wind. From above we enjoy the most beautiful panoramic view of the coast, the sea below us and the sea breeze make the experience magical. I don't stop smiling for a moment, paralysis takes over me!

At the end of the day, when the air is cooler we move to the hill behind the beach where the majestic Church of Virgin Mary Tsambika, an important place of pilgrimage and spirituality on the island of Rhodes. To reach the church, we walk up a steep climb of about 300 steps. Once at the top, you can admire the traditional architecture of the church, alongside religious icons and candles lit by pilgrims. The quiet and serenity of the surrounding environment make it an ideal place for contemplation and prayer. Furthermore, from the top of the hill you can enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the Tsambika Beach coastline and beyond.

Legend has it that "in the 16th century, a shepherd and his wife who were unable to have children, one evening saw a glimmer above the promontory and the phenomenon was repeated for several days until they decided together with other villagers to go and see what was shining during the night. Climbing the difficult rocky path they discovered that the light was the reflection of a candle in front of a silver Icon of Madonna. They decided to take it to the village and soon the discovery reached the island of Cyprus where some religious people proclaimed that the icon belonged to them and that it had been stolen in some way. Promptly the population of Rhodes, returned theSacred Icon but after some time they saw the light again on the promontory. It was returned to the Island of Cyprus three times but each time it returned to Rhodes miraculously, and so in the end it was decided that evidently this was the place where it should remain and so it was built there Church of Our Lady Who Shines (Tsambika). After some time, the pastor's wife gave birth to a child and the miracle was repeated over time for all those women who, unable to have children, climbed barefoot up to the Church to ask the Madonna for grace. As a sign of gratitude for the miracle, all newborns were given the name Tsambika if they were girls and Tsambikos if they were boys.“.

Day 6: Butterfly Valley, Kallithea Spa and Kallithea Beach

Another morning, another excursion into the heart of the island. Let's visit the Valley of Butterflies, a magical and enchanted place where the green of nature mixes with the red and orange of butterflies. This valley is an oasis of serenity, where rushing waterways, small wooden bridges and shady paths frame a spectacle of rare beauty. But what makes this place really special is the presence of thousands of butterflies. In the summer months, Panaxia Quadripunctuaria (Spotted Harlequin) butterflies arrive by the millions to breed. It is a migratory species, which can only be admired here from June to August. In fact, outside of this period only a few examples remain.

TipsforTrips: The butterfly valley is divided into two "blocks", in fact it has two entrances, both of which can be visited with the same ticket. Although it is recommended to park in the first car park you come across and go up along both routes, our advice is not to miss the second part, which is higher and cooler and richer in butterflies. If you arrive early enough you can visit almost alone (groups start from the lower part).

Hours: Every day. From 8:00 to 19:00.

We move to the coast, the Kallithea Baths they are our next stop, a combination of history, natural beauty and well-being. Built in the 1920s during the Italian occupation, they were originally conceived as a spa, and their design is a charming mix of classical elements and Art Nouveau ornamentation. Although the main building has been carefully restored, its original style has been preserved, making this destination even more fascinating for architecture lovers. The spa is immersed in a natural environment of extraordinary beauty.

Hours: Every day. From 8:00 to 20:00.

The complex overlooks a stretch of rocky coast organized into panoramic terraces and you can take walks among the olive trees and palm trees of the surrounding gardens where small waterfalls of water are hidden from the rocks. In the center of the cove is the Kallithea Beach, a strip of golden sand and pebbles lapped by the incredibly clear and blue waters of the Aegean Sea. The shallow, crystal-clear waters are full of marine life.

Upon returning we go to deliver the car, in the next two days we have concentrated the stages for which the car is not needed so as to save ourselves two days of rental!

Day 7: Rhodes (Old Town, Mandraki Port, Mount Smith and Acropolis of Rhodes)

Although we had the opportunity to wander around the city during the evenings, we wanted to dedicate a whole day to visiting Rhodes.

Let's start the day with a visit to Rhodes city walls. Built around the middle of the 14th century by the Knights of San Giovanni, with a length of 4 km and a height of up to 10 metres, they have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. They are characterized by bastions (in particular that of San Giorgio with a polygonal shape and the circular one of the Carretto), from watchtowers and guarantee access to the old city via three entrance gates: Porta Sant'Attanasio, Porta d'Ambroise and Porta Marina (on the sea side). Between the walls there is also the moat which was once used to defend the city from enemies and is now completely pedestrian.

We cross the Porta Sant'Attanasio and we return to the ancient city, totally pedestrian and characterized by various historical monuments, taverns, restaurants and shops. We come across the Church of the Virgin of the Village. We get lost among the alleys and courtyards of the center, play with the local cats and explore the ancient beauty of this city. Let's cross Square of the Jewish Martyrs to Hippocrates Square, two of the main squares of Rhodes, large and paved surrounded by historic buildings and taverns. They often host cultural events, local markets and street artist performances, making them a central point of activity in Rhodes Old Town.

Let's go back up Sokratous pedestrian artery that runs through the heart of the old city famous for its small shops selling typical products, souvenirs, handcrafted jewellery, traditional fabrics and art objects. Let's get to the Suleymaniye Mosque in classic Ottoman style with a large internal courtyard and an elegant minaret. The building features a main dome and traditional Islamic decorations.

Next to the mosque we visit the Medieval clock tower, dating back to the 14th century, a notable example of medieval architecture with Gothic influences. The tower houses a large mechanical clock, which was installed in the 19th century. We find it open and we can also visit it inside. The tower is 53 steps high and from the top you can enjoy a good view of the city. Together with the entrance ticket, a cold drink is offered on the internal terrace, we take the opportunity to take a mid-morning break.

Hours: Every day. From 9:00 to 21:00.

We move to Palace of the Grand Master, an extraordinary example of medieval architecture. Its construction dates back to the 14th century, and features Gothic, Gothic-Renaissance and Ottoman elements. The building is imposing, with a massive facade, defensive walls and corner towers. The palace has a rich history and was used as the seat of the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights of Rhodes, one of the most important military and religious organizations of the Middle Ages. After the Ottoman occupation, the palace was transformed into a prison and later suffered damage during an explosion in the 19th century. It was restored in the 1930s and today houses a museum displaying a collection of medieval and Renaissance objects.

Hours: Every day. From 8:00 to 19:45.

Let's walk through it Street of the Knights, one of the most iconic streets in Rhodes which takes its name from the Order of the Knights of St. John, who ruled the island for centuries. During the medieval period, the street was the heart of the knights' settlement. The street is lined with well-preserved historic buildings, many of which were the residences of the different “tongues” of the Order of Knights. These buildings feature Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, each with its own distinctive style. The street is paved in a characteristic way, maintaining its medieval appearance.

After a stop for lunch, we cross the walls again from the Porta della Libertà and find ourselves at Mandraki Port. The port was once home to the very famous Colossus of Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Today it has two columns at the entrance above which stand two bronze statues of Elafos and Elafina, two deer who according to legend freed the island of Rhodes from an invasion of snakes. Along the arm in front of the pier stand the Fort of S. Nicola and the three ancients Windmills.

In mid-afternoon we head to Mount Smith, at a height of 112 meters above the sea, where theAcropolis of Rhodes. Wander among the remains of the Temple of Apollo from the 3rd BC where today only the 3 columns, the symbol of Rhodes, remain. In the northernmost part, however, there are the ruins of the Temple of Zeus and Athena Polias, the Gimnasium - the ancient 201 meter long stadium - and the large Greek theater which held 800 people. The Acropolis is always open and entry is free, but for us it was a bit of a disappointment - you often find misleading photos of the acropolis on brochures which actually represent the Acropolis of Lindos -. It's a bit of a skip track.

Going back we enter the walls of the old city from Porte d'Ambroise and we get lost in the festive streets of the city.

Day 8: Symi

We wake up very early, today we dedicate the day to a boat excursion to Symi, an enchanting island in the Greek Dodecanese.

We take the ferry from the port of Rhodes and in less than 2 hours we arrive at the picturesque port of Symi Town, the main city of the island. A unique atmosphere welcomes us here: this picturesque island is famous for its colorful pastel-colored neoclassical buildings, traditional taverns and artisan shops surrounded by crystal-clear blue water.

The village is actually divided into two large neighborhoods: Gialos Symi, the lower part near the port e Anus Symi, the highest part of the country. The two neighborhoods are connected by a large pedestrian street made of stairs, called Kali Strata, which connects the port part to the upper part of the town. We explore the port a bit, getting lost in the alleys of the centre. We then walk along Kali Strata and climb up to enjoy a beautiful view of the bay.

After spending some time in Symi Town, we move to the bay of Agios Giorgios. This stretch of coast is known for its natural beauty and crystal clear water. The taxi boat, stopping on all the splendid beaches of the coast, crosses breathtaking landscapes, between hills covered with olive trees and panoramas that leave you breathless. The bay of Agios Giorgios it is truly spectacular, thanks to the imposing rocks that are located right behind it, the initial view of the beach takes your breath away. The beach is mainly pebbly with crystal clear, blue waters. It owes its name to the small chapel of Agios Georgios built on the edge of the rock.

If you liked the first part of this itinerary, continue the journey with us: we're moving to Kos.

Last Updated on 20 December 2024