Cyprus, island with two souls

When choosing a new travel destination I often let myself be guided by the curiosity that a place arouses in me. I like to read, inform myself and learn everything about places and traditions... and the more I want to discover, the more I want to leave.

Cyprus, the third largest island in the Mediterranean, is a rich destination - from archeology to religion, from architecture to gastronomy, through hiking itineraries and the crystal clear sea - it is an island waiting to be discovered, suitable for travelers like us they love to move far and wide. 

Cyprus is also a land of controversial nature where the history of two peoples is intertwined. The island is divided in two: the Democratic Republic of Cyprus to the south, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus to the north. In the south Greek is spoken and people pay in euros, in the north the language is Turkish and the currency is the Turkish lira. The green line divides them, drawn by the UN after the occupation that began with the war in '74 and ended with the self-proclamation of a republic recognized only by Turkey. The capital – Nicosia for the Greeks, Lefkosia for the Turks – is the last city in Europe to be divided by a wall: there is a real customs with policemen and passport control and between the buildings ruined by the war a line made of petrol cans, sandbags and control towers. 

The border for tourists is absolutely calm, both the Greek and Turkish sides are kind and hospitable to visitors, you just have to get used to the presence of the military - and their bases scattered almost everywhere on the island - to the different languages and currencies and the much feared driving on the left. 

All this is food for my curiosity!

Itinerary in a nutshell

Our journey lasted 15 days exploring both the Democratic Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus by crossing the border four times, twice on foot and twice by car.

Driving for 1250km we went from the top of the Akamas peninsula, to the easternmost rock of the Karpaz peninsula to the southernmost tip of Cape Greco.

We slept in Larnaca, Limassol, Pafos, Nicosia, on the Golden Beach and in Agia Napa, stopped in Girne and Famagusta and walked through the villages of Lefkara, Kiti and Omodos.

We rested on the most beautiful beaches of the island – Blue Lagoon, Golden Beach, Governor's Beach, Lara Beach, Nissi Beach, Sea Bird Beach and Konnos Beach – and immersed in the wildest nature along the Kaledonia Waterfalls trail, part of the Pouziaris trail, the Avakas Gorge Nature Trail and the trails between the Sea caves and Konnos Bay.

We did not miss visits to the major archaeological sites - the Archaeological Site of Nea Paphos, the Tomb of the Kings and the Salamis Ruins - and stops such as the magical monastery of Kikkos, the fairy-tale Castle of Saint Hilarion, the unmissable abbey of Bellapais and the evocative Kourion Ancient Amphitheater.

If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages of our journey day by day.

Day 1: Larnaca

Our plane lands at Larnaca Airport at 4.35pm. Having collected our suitcases we head to the car park to collect our car. As soon as we leave the airport the warm air and the scent of earth and plants burned by the sun envelops us and I feel a bit at home. Having taken possession of our white KIA Stonic – with the steering wheel decidedly on the wrong side – we travel about 8 kilometers to arrive at our first destination, Larnaca. 

Tips for Trips: before becoming familiar with driving on the left it may take some time and sweat, renting a car with automatic transmission is highly recommended!

After a very short stop at the hotel to reorganize our backpacks we set off to discover the city.

Larnaca is a particular city, modern but at times decadent. 

In the historic center there is the beautiful Agios Lazaros, church built on the place where the remains of San Lazzaro were found, today preserved in a tomb inside. According to legend, Lazarus, after being resurrected in Palestine, was exiled by the Pharisees who abandoned him on a boat that reached the shores of Larnaca. Here he spent the rest of his life, was appointed bishop of the city and died there, for his second and last time. 

Heading towards the sea we visit the Mosque Cami Kebir, spiritual center of the Muslim community, used for worship but open to visitors - it is mandatory to dress appropriately - and, overlooking the sea, the Larnaca Fortress, built by the Ottomans in 1625, which divides the Finikoudes – the city promenade – from the old Turkish quarter.

In both directions the seafront is full of numerous restaurants and taverns where you can eat good fresh fish with a view of the sea. Thus we conclude our visit to the city, eating good fish and sipping Zivania, a typical Cyprus drink.

Day 2: Hala Sultan Tekke, Panagia Angeloktisi, Stavrovouni Monaster, Lefkara, Choirokoitia, Governor's Beach, Limassol

We leave Larnaca in the direction of Limassol, where we will sleep for the next two nights. Our itinerary begins with a visit to Hala Sultan Tekke, on the western shore of the Larnaka Salt Lake – a shallow expanse of brackish water that in summer, totally dried up by the heat, becomes a glistening expanse of salt. 

Tips for Trips: Hala Sultan Tekke is located about 1km from the main road connecting the airport to Larnaka so, if you have some time on arrival, you can make a detour.

There Hala Sultan Tekke it is a complex consisting of a mosque with an adjoining tekke (monastery) surrounded by olive trees, cypresses and palm trees. The mosque is still in use and is a very important place for the Islamic world as it has a profound religious significance. In fact, legend has it that it was built on the place where Muhammad's venerated paternal aunt died due to a fall from her horse while she was trying to escape from the Byzantine soldiers. To visit it it is necessary to wear sober clothes and be appropriately covered. To visit the prayer room, very simple and modest, you must take off your shoes and respect religious silence.

Hours: Mon-Sun - 1 November – end of March 08.00 – 17.00 1 April – end of May 08.00 – 18.00 1 June – end of August 08.00 – 19.30 1 September – end of October 08.00 – 18.00.

Moving south-west of Larnaca we pass by Kiti to visit the splendid Panagia Angeloktisti, literally “built by angels”. According to legend, in the 5th century the inhabitants of Kition - present-day Larnaka - tired of pirate raids, decided to move the settlement inland, founding Kiti. In the construction of the church they saw the angels move its foundations to its present location and erect it. The church dating back to the 10th century is in Byzantine style rich in domed vaults. Inside it houses the Mosaic of the Virgin Mary, found among the ruins of the original apse, incorporated into the current building. 

Hours: Summer: Monday - Saturday: 07:00 - 18:45, Sunday: 09:30 - 18:45, Winter: Monday - Saturday: 07:00 - 16:45, Sunday: 09:30 - 16:45.

Next stop is Stavrovouni Monastery, located on the mountain of the same name, where the oldest monastic community in Cyprus lives. Women are not allowed to enter as there is a strict monastic rule but, thanks to its location, it offers a nice view of a large part of the island (but for that alone the road is not worth it).

Hours: September - March: 08:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 17:00, April - August: 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00.

For lunch we head towards Lefkara, along the road that goes up towards the slopes of the Troodos mountains. The village is divided into two small towns: Pano Lefkara higher up and Kato Lefkara at a slightly lower altitude. Let's decide for the first. The village is known for its artisanal lace and silver work and it is still common to see women sitting outside their homes working together. Let's take a walk along the streets of the town which is home to numerous small shops and some beautiful and welcoming taverns.

After a hearty lunch we set off again and reach the site Choirokoitia. It is one of the most important prehistoric sites in the entire Eastern Mediterranean, under UNESCO protection since 1998. The village, dating back to the 9th millennium BC. C., is located on the slopes of a hill protected by a wall system and extends for 3 hectares. It is made up of circular houses built of brick and stone and with flat roofs. Under these houses funerary remains were found useful for obtaining information on the religious practices of the times and an estimate of the average age. Furthermore, thanks to the numerous tools found, the high degree of specialization in agriculture and hunting was proven.