Nella scelta di una nuova meta di viaggio mi lascio spesso guidare dalla curiosità che un posto mi suscita. Mi piace leggere, informarmi e conoscere tutto sui luoghi e sulle tradizioni… e più ho voglia di scoprire, più ho voglia di partire.
Cipro, terza isola del mediterraneo per grandezza, è una destinazione ricca – dall’archeologia alla religione, dall’architettura alla gastronomia, passando per gli itinerari escursionistici e il mare cristallino – è un’isola tutta da scoprire, adatta a viaggiatori che come noi amano muoversi in lungo e in largo.
Cipro è anche una terra dalla natura controversa dove la storia di due popoli si intreccia. L’isola è divisa in due: a sud la Repubblica democratica di Cipro, a nord la Repubblica turca di Cipro del nord. A sud si parla il greco e si paga in euro, a nord la lingua è quella turca e la moneta è la lira turca. A dividerle la green line, tracciata dall’Onu dopo l‘occupazione iniziata con la guerra nel ‘74 e terminata con l’autoproclamazione di una repubblica riconosciuta solo dalla Turchia. La capitale – Nicosia per i greci, Lefkosia per i turchi – è l’ultima città in Europa ad essere divisa da un muro: c’è una vera dogana con poliziotti e controllo dei passaporti e fra gli edifici rovinati dalla guerra una linea fatta di bidoni di benzina, sacchi di sabbia e torrette di controllo.
Il confine per i turisti è assolutamente tranquillo, sia la parte greca che quella turca è gentile e ospitale con i visitatori, bisogna solo abituarsi alla presenza dei militari – e alle loro basi sparpagliate un po’ ovunque sull’isola – alle lingue e monete diverse e alla tanto temuta guida a sinistra.
All this is food for my curiosity!
- Itinerary in a nutshell
- Giorno 1: Larnaca
- Giorno 2: Hala Sultan Tekke, Panagia Angeloktisi, Stavrovouni Monaster, Lefkara, Choirokoitia, Governor’s Beach, Limassol
- Giorno 3: Antica Kourion, Tempio di Apollo, Avdimou Beach, Castello di Kolossi e Kourion beach.
- Day 4: Caledonia and Pouziaris Natural trail (Caledonia Waterfall), Omodos, Kykkos Monastery, Pafos
- Giorno 5: Blue Lagoon e Bagni di Afrodite
- Day 6: Avakas Gorge Nature trail, Lara beach, Adonis Bath Waterfalls
- Giorno 7: Nea Pafos, Tomba dei Re, Petrou de Romiou (la spiaggia di Afrodite), Nicosia
- Giorno 8: Nicosia
- Giorno 9: Castello St. Hilarion, Kyrenia, Abbazia di Bellapais, Dipkarpaz
- Giorno 10: Penisola di Karpaz, Golden beach, Sea Bird beach, Capo dell’Apostolo Andrea, Agia Filon
- Giorno 11: Salamina ruins, Famagasta e Aya Napa
- Giorno 12: Gliki Nero Beach, Bridge of lovers, Ammos Kambouri Beach, Limnara Beach
- Giorno 13: Spiaggia di Nissi e Macronissi beach
- Giorno 14: Konnos beach, Cyclops cave, Laguna blu, Capo greco, Sea caves
- Day 15: Departure
Itinerary in a nutshell
Our journey lasted 15 days exploring both the Democratic Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus by crossing the border four times, twice on foot and twice by car.
Driving for 1250km we went from the top of the Akamas peninsula, to the easternmost rock of the Karpaz peninsula to the southernmost tip of Cape Greco.
We slept in Larnaca, Limassol, Pafos, Nicosia, on the Golden Beach and in Agia Napa, stopped in Girne and Famagusta and walked through the villages of Lefkara, Kiti and Omodos.
Ci siamo riposati sulle più belle spiagge dell’isola – Blue Lagoon, Golden Beach, Governor’s Beach, Lara Beach, Nissi Beach, Sea Bird Beach e Konnos Beach – e immersi nella natura più selvaggia percorrendo il Kaledonia Waterfalls trail, parte del Pouziaris trail, l’Avakas Gorge Nature Trail e i sentieri tra le Sea caves e Konnos Bay.
Non ci siamo fatti mancare le visite ai maggiori siti archeologici – l’Archaeological Site of Nea Paphos, la Tomba dei Re e le Salamis Ruins – e tappe come il magico monastero di Kikkos, il fiabesco Castello di Sant’Ilarione, l’imperdibile abbazia di Bellapais e il suggestivo Kourion Ancient Amphitheater.
If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages of our journey day by day.
Day 1: Larnaca
Il nostro aereo atterra all’aeroporto di Larnaca alle 16:35. Recuperate le valigie ci dirigiamo al parcheggio per ritirare la nostra auto. Appena usciti dall’aeroporto l’aria calda e il profumo di terra e piante bruciate dal sole ci avvolge e mi sento un po’ a casa. Preso possesso della nostra KIA Stonic bianca – con il volante decisamente dal lato sbagliato – percorriamo circa 8 chilometri per arrivare alla nostra prima destinazione, Larnaca.
Tips for Trips: prima di prendere dimestichezza con la guida a sinistra potrebbe volerci un po’ di tempo e sudore, noleggiare un’auto col cambio automatico è altamente consigliato!
After a very short stop at the hotel to reorganize our backpacks we set off to discover the city.
Larnaca is a particular city, modern but at times decadent.
In the historic center there is the beautiful Agios Lazaros, church built on the place where the remains of San Lazzaro were found, today preserved in a tomb inside. According to legend, Lazarus, after being resurrected in Palestine, was exiled by the Pharisees who abandoned him on a boat that reached the shores of Larnaca. Here he spent the rest of his life, was appointed bishop of the city and died there, for his second and last time.
Heading towards the sea we visit the Mosque Cami Kebir, spiritual center of the Muslim community, usata per il culto ma visitabile – è obbligatorio vestirsi in maniera adeguata – e, affacciata sul mare, la Larnaca Fortress, costruita dagli ottomani nel 1625, che divide la Finikoudes – la passeggiata cittadina – dal vecchio quartiere turco.
In both directions the seafront is full of numerous restaurants and taverns where you can eat good fresh fish with a view of the sea. Thus we conclude our visit to the city, eating good fish and sipping Zivania, a typical Cyprus drink.
Day 2: Hala Sultan Tekke, Panagia Angeloktisi, Stavrovouni Monaster, Lefkara, Choirokoitia, Governor’s Beach, Limassol
We leave Larnaca in the direction of Limassol, where we will sleep for the next two nights. Our itinerary begins with a visit to Hala Sultan Tekke, sulla riva occidentale del lago salato di Larnaka – una distesa d’acqua salmastra poco profonda che in estate, totalmente prosciugata dal caldo, diventa una distesa lucente di sale.
Tips for Trips: Hala Sultan Tekke is located about 1km from the main road connecting the airport to Larnaka so, if you have some time on arrival, you can make a detour.
There Hala Sultan Tekke it is a complex consisting of a mosque with an adjoining tekke (monastery) surrounded by olive trees, cypresses and palm trees. The mosque is still in use and is a very important place for the Islamic world as it has a profound religious significance. In fact, legend has it that it was built on the place where Muhammad's venerated paternal aunt died due to a fall from her horse while she was trying to escape from the Byzantine soldiers. To visit it it is necessary to wear sober clothes and be appropriately covered. To visit the prayer room, very simple and modest, you must take off your shoes and respect religious silence.
Hours: Mon-Sun - 1 November – end of March 08.00 – 17.00 1 April – end of May 08.00 – 18.00 1 June – end of August 08.00 – 19.30 1 September – end of October 08.00 – 18.00.
Moving south-west of Larnaca we pass by Kiti to visit the splendid Panagia Angeloktisti, letteralmente “costruita dagli angeli”. Secondo la leggenda nel V secolo gli abitanti di Kition – l’attuale Larnaka – stanchi delle scorrerie dei pirati decisero di spostare l’insediamento verso l’interno fondando Kiti. Nella costruzione della chiesa videro gli angeli spostarne le fondamenta nella posizione attuale ed erigerla. La chiesa risalente al X secolo è in stile bizantino ricca di volte a cupola. Custodisce al suo interno il Mosaico della Vergine Maria, rinvenuto fra le rovine dell’abside originale, incorporato nell’edificio attuale.
Hours: Summer: Monday - Saturday: 07:00 - 18:45, Sunday: 09:30 - 18:45, Winter: Monday - Saturday: 07:00 - 16:45, Sunday: 09:30 - 16:45.
Next stop is Stavrovouni Monastery, posto sull’omonimo monte, dove vive la più antica comunità monastica di Cipro. Le donne non possono entrare poiché vige una rigida regola monastica ma, grazie alla sua posizione, offre una bella vista su gran parte dell’isola (ma solo per quella la strada non vale la pena).
Hours: September - March: 08:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 17:00, April - August: 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00.
For lunch we head towards Lefkara, along the road that goes up towards the slopes of the Troodos mountains. The village is divided into two small towns: Pano Lefkara higher up and Kato Lefkara at a slightly lower altitude. Let's decide for the first. The village is known for its artisanal lace and silver work and it is still common to see women sitting outside their homes working together. Let's take a walk along the streets of the town which is home to numerous small shops and some beautiful and welcoming taverns.
After a hearty lunch we set off again and reach the site Choirokoitia. It is one of the most important prehistoric sites in the entire Eastern Mediterranean, under UNESCO protection since 1998. The village, dating back to the 9th millennium BC. C., is located on the slopes of a hill protected by a wall system and extends for 3 hectares. It is made up of circular houses built of brick and stone and with flat roofs. Under these houses funerary remains were found useful for obtaining information on the religious practices of the times and an estimate of the average age. Furthermore, thanks to the numerous tools found, the high degree of specialization in agriculture and hunting was proven.
Opening hours: Every day - from 16th April to 15th September 8.30am - 7.30pm - from 16th September to 15th April 8.30am - 5pm.
The last, refreshing stop is the Governor's beach, nella costa tra Larnaca e Limassol. Si tratta di un litorale di 2 km, con numerose calette dalle spiagge nere sabbiose, bianche rocce di gesso e acque profonde e cristalline. Nonostante il parere discordante di molti – dovuto alla presenza di una centrale elettrica in lontananza – noi abbiamo apprezzato molto il contrasto tra i colori e le sue acque profonde e pulite. Sulla collina alle spalle ci sono bar e taverne dove sorseggiare qualcosa di fresco godendo della vista mozzafiato.
Having arrived at our new base, after a very short stop to get back on our feet, we set off again to discover Limassol looking for a good place to eat (I ALWAYS think of a good place to eat). It immediately strikes us with its liveliness and beauty. Its historic center is nestled around the Medieval Castle, famous because the wedding between Richard the Lionheart and Berengaria of Navarre was celebrated there. From there a multitude of small characteristic streets wind their way, where the past mixes perfectly with the modern, between old houses and recent cafés and restaurants. Walking towards the sea you reach the Marina, brand new and modern, also full of clubs and bars.
Day 3: Ancient Kourion, Temple of Apollo, Avdimou Beach, Kolossi Castle and Kourion beach.
The day is dedicated to the historical part of Limassol. Let's start by heading towardsAncient Kourion, a settlement that dates back to the 13th century BC. C. Il sito si trova nei pressi di Limassol ma preferiamo arrivare presto per precedere l’arrivo dei bus turistici ed evitare le ore più calde. Il sito è molto ampio e sono necessarie almeno 3 ore per visitarlo tutto ma il percorso è molto ben segnalato e facile da seguire. Inoltre si trova in posizione rialzata rispetto alla Baia di Episkopi e offre meravigliosi scorci con una splendida vista sul mare e sulla costa. Da non perdere! Tra i monumenti più belli c’è l’imponente anfiteatro, perfettamente restaurato che ospita ancora oggi rappresentazioni teatrali, concerti e balletti. Vicino si trova la Villa di Eustolios, una residenza privata costruita da un ricco abitante cristiano del V secolo decorata con ricercati mosaici, e un interessante complesso di bagni romani con un ingegnoso sistema di riscaldamento a pavimento. Altri mosaici sono conservati alla Casa di Achille e nella vicina Casa dei Gladiatori.
Hours: Mon-Sun - from 16th April to 15th September 8.15am - 7.45pm - from 16th September to 15th April 8.15am - 5.15pm.
Let's add a stage, the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates (Dio dei boschi), non era in programma ma segnalato sulla mappa del sito ci ha incuriositi. A circa 2.5km dal sito principale di Kourion, si può visitare in meno di un’ora ed è interessante per le rovine del tempio dedicato ad Apollo, oltre che ad essere stato in passato una delle porte di accesso ai forestieri diretti appunto a Kourion.
Hours: Monday - Sunday: 08.30 - 17.00 (16 September - 15 April), 08.30 - 19.30 (16 April - 15 September)
For lunch we move to Avdimou beach because it seems that the catch of the day here is really good and so we start tasting it.
It's time for Kolossi Castle, un’ex roccaforte dei crociati a sud-ovest del villaggio di Kolossi, a circa 14 chilometri da Limassol. Il castello originale fu costruito nel 1210 dall’esercito franco mentre l’attuale risale alla metà del ‘400, periodo in cui i Crociati governavano la zona, producendo vini e lavorando la canna da zucchero. La struttura è composta da due ampie sale sovrapposte al 1° e al 2° piano, mentre una ripida scala a chiocciola conduce al tetto, da dove si gode di una vista su tutto il territorio.
Hours: Monday - Sunday: 08.30 - 17.00 (16 September - 15 April), Monday - Sunday: 08.30 - 19.30 (16 April - 15 September)
We were supposed to visit as planned Lady’s Mile Beach but due to the strong wind we turned back Kourion Beach, which, probably due to the time, did not particularly impress us.
Day 4: Caledonia and Pouziaris Natural trail (Caledonia Waterfall), Omodos, Kykkos Monastery, Pafos
The day starts early in the morning, ci aspettano un po’ di kilometri prima di arrivare ad una delle escursioni più attese della vacanza: vogliamo arrivare presto per non trovare il percorso affollato. Il programma è di percorrere il Caledonia Waterfall Trail uphill and follow part of the Pouziaris Nature Trail downhill, an 8km circular route. The Caledonia Waterfall trail it is 3 km long, with around 400 m of altitude difference and can also be walked on in summer as it is shaded. It starts 1km downstream from Troodos Center and ends just outside Platres. The path winds through thick woods in a valley following the Kyros stream, crossing over stones and wooden bridges, and is quite steep in some sections. The woods it passes through have very varied vegetation with black pines and Mentha cyproca and are populated by many small birds. Halfway along the route is the Caledonia Waterfall which falls from a 15 m high precipice. The Pouziaris Nature Trail – almeno la parte percorsa – è un sentiero che scende tra le montagne, esposto e poco riparato dal sole – la vegetazione è rada e bruciacchiata dal sole – ma regala una vista spettacolare su tutta la vallata.
Tips for Trips: Internet is not available for almost the entire route, I recommend downloading a GPS map. For my routes I often use Wikiloc.
For lunch we stop at Omodos, traditional village in the Troodos Mountains, considered the wine capital of Cyprus. The village developed around the Timios Stravros monastery complex and its square overlooked by taverns and souvenir shops. The historic center has been perfectly renovated and the ancient stone houses now host small shops with artisan products. It's a pleasant place to spend a few hours taking a walk or having lunch in some local tavern.
Passing through the Trodos Mountains you cannot fail to stop at Kykkos Monastery. Si trova ad una altitudine di 1318 e la strada per arrivarci è lunga e tortuosa ma ne vale assolutamente la pena. Gli edifici del complesso monastico, risalgono a epoche diverse. Al Centro il tempio, attorno ad esso varie sezioni dell’abbazia. Al piano superiore la biblioteca e le celle dei monaci. A fianco del tempio un ampio cortile lastricato con un pozzo. Più avanti le scale portano al piano inferiore con un altro cortile aperto con un grande pozzo al centro e un negozio con i prodotti del monastero, noi abbiamo comprato una Zivania ambrata squisita. Proprio di fronte al negozio c’è un enorme mosaico della Vergine Maria. A fianco la chiesa del monastero. L’interno lascia senza parole per le sue decorazioni e la luce che emana. È a forma di L ed è costituita da due diverse chiese: la prima in forma basilicale allungata, la seconda in croce greca centrata.
Hours: From November to May: 10:00 - 16:00; from June to October: 10:00 - 18:00
Let's finish the day at Paphos, which will host us for the next three nights. Kato Pafos (Lower Pafos) is the tourist center with a lively seafront, crowded with bars, taverns and shops and adorned with palm trees. Ktima (Upper Pafos) is the historic centre, teeming with cafes interspersed with colonial buildings and illuminated fountains.
Day 5: Blue Lagoon and Baths of Aphrodite
Day dedicated to the northern part of the Akamas peninsula with its wonderful Blue Lagoon, another stop not to be missed. The peninsula is a large spur of coastal rocks interspersed with sandy coves with a clear, transparent sea with many shades from turquoise to intense blue. At the entrance to the park you will find the Baths of Aphrodite. As you can imagine from the name, it is said that Aphrodite came to bathe in this place. The source left us very disappointed, given that it is a small pool with water that flows from a rock inside a cave infested with pigeons and poo. The area from here on is a protected nature reserve, the roads are unpaved and full of potholes, at times very steep and exposed. The advice is not to venture out with your own car but to park it at the entrance to the park and use the Jeep shuttles that shuttle within the reserve or rent a quad. We opt for the second solution and rent a Buggy, to be free to wander among the beauties of the uncontaminated and wild nature, as well as among the many coves. So we spend the day whizzing around discovering the peninsula. An obligatory stop is the Blue Lagoon – worthy of its fame – is a small sandy cove with shallow, crystal-clear water.
On the way back to Pafos we stop atAphrodite's Rock Microbrewery, an English-style pub hidden among the trees of a cool valley offering craft beers and ciders produced by an English family. Unfortunately we arrived late and they were about to close but the very kind owners let us sit for a tasting while they put everything away.
Hours: Monday: 12:00 – 18:00 pm; Tuesday and Wednesday: 12:00 – 18:00 pm; Friday and Saturday: 12:00 – 22:00 pm; Sunday | 12.00 – 17.00 pm
Day 6: Avakas Gorge Nature trail, Lara beach, Adonis Bath Waterfalls
Second day dedicated to the Akamas Peninsula Natural Park, we visit the southern part.
We begin with a 3 km excursion in the midst of nature which, going up the stream, takes us to cross theAvakas Gorge. The route is of medium difficulty and winds through trees, oleanders and rocks until it crosses the gorges. Nature is dense and the air is light. To get to the entrance to the gorges, take a dirt road (also passable without a jeep) for about 2 km.
High up on a promontory, an old castle dominates the coast, Viklari (The Last Castle), oggi diventato agriturismo. La vista è indiscutibilmente tra le migliori di Cipro. Si mangia all’ombra di un vigneto in grandi tavoli di pietra e offre pranzo a menù fisso con scelta tra pollo, maiale oppure misto alla brace e contorno di patate (giganti) e insalata greca.
Returning to the main dirt road along the coast of the park you arrive at Lara Beach, a spectacular bay, made up of crystalline and transparent waters, surrounded by low hills dotted with Mediterranean scrub. Lara Beach is famous because it is the breeding place of two rare species of turtle, the caretta-caretta and the green turtle. Almost the entire coast is a protected place, so it is not possible to plant umbrellas or put up sunbeds, light fires or stay for the night.
Returning to Pafos we make a detour to visit the Baths of Adonis. Per arrivarci la strada è dissestata ma anche questa fattibile con qualsiasi auto. Il posto è un parco a tema un po’ fatiscente pieno di statue kitch e giganti e con un museo all’ingresso che sembra una vecchia casa. All’interno due pozze di acqua sorgiva (fredde e poco curate) ma ci si può lanciare con la liana da un albero a fare un po’ di tuffi. Divertente sicuramente, ma non è una tappa imperdibile.
Hours: every group from 9:00 to 20:00
Giorno 7: Nea Pafos, Tomba dei Re, Petrou de Romiou (Aphrodite's beach), Nicosia
In Pafos a visit to the excavations of is essential Nea Pafos. A part of the historical monuments is kept within a well-defined excavation area and accessible by purchasing an entrance ticket. Other points of interest are located within the town center and can be visited for free.
Tips for Trips: The map that you will receive at the ticket office, at the entrance to the site, will be useful to you, which outlines a perimeter that also includes the monuments that are outside the site but inside Kato Paphos.
The entrance to the archaeological site of Nea Papos it is located right at the beginning of the port located before the fortress. The archaeological area is vast and you can admire, in addition to the agora and the Roman theatre, a series of mosaics preserved in the remains of what were the noble houses in which they were originally found: from the House of Dionysus to the House of Aion, up to the House of Theseus and that of Orpheus.
Hours: every day from 8:00 to 17:00 (November-March), from 8:00 to 18:00 (April-May, September-October), 8:00 to 19:30 (June-August).
Outside the site, going up towards the center there is access to the sacred area of the church of Agia Kyriaki and the remains of the Panagia Chrysopolitissa, while a short walk leads to the small underground church dedicated to Agia Solomoni, recognizable by the large tree adorned at the entrance of hundreds of handkerchiefs and rags left by the faithful in search of a grace.
We continue the day with a visit to Tombs of the Kings, in my opinion the most beautiful archaeological site in Cyprus. This necropolis, symbolically called the Tombs of the Kings due to the magnificence of the tombs it houses, was used for the burial of the deceased during the Hellenistic and Ptolemaic periods. The tombs were very elaborate structures with a courtyard, peristyle and columns and even today one can imagine their grandeur. The hypogea of this area were excavated starting from the 3rd century BC and are located in an area made up of small escarpments and rocky cliffs, called paleokastro (ancient city).
Hours: Monday - Sunday: 08.30 - 17.00 (16 September - 15 April), Monday - Sunday: 08.30 - 19.30 (16 April - 15 September)
We get back in the car and set off in the direction of South Nicosia, the longest journey awaits us.
On the road between Pafos and Limassol, we stop at one of the most famous beaches in Cyprus: Petrou de Romiou (Aphrodite's beach). The beach is very easy to find because it is located close to the state road that passes behind the sea. On the right there is a parking area with a bar and an underpass that allows you to get to the beach without crossing the state road on foot. It is considered the lovers' beach, in fact the shore is full of hearts built with the stones of the beach and the initials of the lovers. According to tradition this was the place where the goddess Aphrodite was born from the waters and thanks to this legend Cyprus is often called "the island of Aphrodite". The name of the place, which is literally called "Romios Stones” derives from another legend according to which a popular hero, Dhiyenis Akritas known as Romios, to chase away pirates from the coasts of the island, threw some huge rocks at the invaders' ships. This explains the suggestive stacks that are located a short distance from the shore.
Day 8: Nicosia
Day dedicated to discovering the historic center of Nicosia. Nicosia, (in ancient times Ledra) is the capital of the island, both of the Republic of Cyprus, the Greek part, and of the Turkish Republic of Cyprus, the Turkish part. It is the last city divided by a wall: they call it the Green Line but it is a clear division, it requires the presence of soldiers and the need to show identity documents to cross the border. Following the green line made of petrol cans, sandbags and barbed wire you come across streets that lead nowhere, bordered by barricades abandoned for decades, flanked by decaying houses cut in half and doors closed by families who thought they were come back shortly and instead they haven't been reopened for 50 years.
We start the tour from Lefkosia, the Turkish side. We go to the Ledra street checkpoint early in the morning to make sure we don't find a queue to cross it. The passage is very fast, passport control takes place from both stations but it is clear that, at least for tourists, it is just a formality. Once through customs you feel catapulted into another world, the city seems dilapidated and at times abandoned. But moving from the streets very close to the border you discover beautiful places, ancient doors along narrow streets, the beautiful icons of the churches and the tall minarets. We travel the roads that lead us to Selimye Mosque And Haydarpass, the caravanserai of Kumarilar Hani, the Armenian church ei Roccas bastions And Mula. A special note to Buyuk Han, a beautiful caravanserai built by the Ottomans in 1572 which served as a place of rest and refreshment for merchants and travellers. Today it hosts artisan workshops and a few restaurants where you can have lunch in the internal courtyard surrounded by a cheerful and spicy atmosphere.
After lunch we go through customs again and return to the Greek side. We retrace Ledra Street which in summer is covered by tarpaulins attached to the buildings on both sides of the street to create a shaded area to shelter from the heat. Let's walk within the walls of Nicosia, starting from Bastion of Avilla and the Venetian walls, the neighborhood and the Chrysaliniotissa Church, the frescoed church of Agios Ioannis, the mosque and the house museum of Hatzigeorgakis Kornesios.
Day 9: St. Hilarion Castle, Kyrenia, Bellapais Abbey, Dipkarpaz
We cross the border for the second time, but by car. We wake up early so we have time in case of unexpected events. Once we arrive at customs we purchase additional insurance for the car for the days we will stay in the Turkish Republic of Cyprus. Here too the checks seem more like a formality.
Tips for Trips: insurance is purchased in a separate guardhouse from the one where they carry out passport control. If you are in the queue you can get off and go and buy the insurance before the checks. Otherwise they will withhold your passport and make you pull over in special parking spaces. Once you show the insurance they will give you your passport back. ATTENTION: at the border they only accept cash payments, make sure you have the necessary amount to pay for the insurance.
The first stop in the northern part is the Castle of Sant'Ilarione, ci lascia senza parole. Sant’Ilarione era originariamente un monastero, il cui nome proveniva da un monaco che presumibilmente aveva scelto il luogo, dove erano stati costruiti nel X secolo un monastero ed una chiesa, come suo eremo. Il castello è diviso in tre sezioni tutte collegate da ripide scale. Quelle media e bassa erano adibite a servizi, mentre quella superiore ospitava la famiglia reale. Nell’ala inferiore erano collocate le stalle e gli alloggi per i soldati. La torre del principe Giovanni si trova su una scogliera sopra il castello mentre la chiesa è nell’ala di mezzo. L’ala superiore era riservata ai reali e vi si può accedere attraverso un passaggio ad arco ben preservato. Lungo le mura occidentali, si gode di una vista mozzafiato di Cipro e dalla finestra della regina, si scorge la città di Girne. Per arrivare qui serve attraversare una strada militare che in estate chiude abbastanza presto al tramonto. L’ultimo ingresso è alle 17, quindi fate attenzione a non arrivare troppo tardi e magari cercate di visitare il castello al mattino (in estate apre alle 9), anche per evitare le ore troppo calde viste le salite da affrontare.
Opening times: From April to October 9.00am – 6.00pm, last entry: 5.00pm From November to March 9.00am – 4.30pm, last entry: 3.30pm
For lunch we head to Girne, the largest city in this area of Northern Cyprus. The historic center is gathered around the bay and the old port of the city, built in medieval times and dominated by the military fortress. Furthermore, the Girne coast is full of restaurants where you can taste freshly caught fish.
Continuing along the main road, returning towards the hinterland, we arrive at Bellapais, un piccolo villaggio famoso per la sua splendida abbazia. L’Bellapais Abbey it is in Gothic style, made up of imposing arches and a large terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. The visit does not take long but it is a little jewel to absolutely visit. It has been called the most interesting Gothic church in the Middle East.
Hours: From June to September 9.00 – 18.00; From October to May 9.00 – 16.00
We get back in the car and head out into the wilderness Karpaz Peninsula. The place that will host us for two nights is a small wooden hotel close to the beach where the only noise is that of the sea and the stars are so bright that you feel like you're seeing them for the first time. We spend the evening by the sea sipping Zivania.
Day 10: Karpaz Peninsula, Golden beach, Sea Bird beach, Capo dell’Apostolo Andrea, Agia Filon
Day to discover the peninsula. The morning is dedicated to the wonderful Golden Beach, an expanse of golden sand with high white dunes behind it, Mediterranean scrub of centuries-old mastic trees and giant junipers. La spiaggia è raggiungibile in auto attraverso il parco naturale protetto con tamarici, ulivi selvatici, pecore ed asini – un po’ invadenti ma amichevoli e simpatici – liberi nelle campagne.
We have lunch in a small bar on top of a hill overlooking the entire coast and continue our tour around the coves towards the east. The program includes a stop at the Monastery of the Apostle Andrew but we find it invaded by tourists so we look at it from afar and continue. Don't miss it though Sea Bird beach, a cove with crystal clear and fresh water where you can spend a few hours relaxing.
We then reach the easternmost tip of Cyprus Capo dell’Apostolo Andrea (in Greek Ακρωτήριο Αποστόλου Ανδρέα, in Turkish Zafer Burnu, “Capo della Vittoria”). Da qui è possibile scorgere gli isolotti rocciosi conosciuti con il nome te Kleides. Poco prima della punta estrema, sulla destra, da una strada sterrata è possibile raggiungere a piedi la cima di un promontorio dove sventolano le bandiere turche e dalla quale si può godere di un panorama immenso su tutta la costa.
At sunset we move to the opposite side of the peninsula. At the village of Dipkarpaz, we turn left towards Agia Filon and its splendid bay: the place is wild, with a few palm trees, a restaurant and the ruins of a church by the sea. Here the water has an intense color and a thousand shades.
Day 11: Salamis ruins, Famagasta and Aya Napa
We leave the Karpaz peninsula and are preparing to visit two of the most famous stages of the northern part.
Salamis, a very suggestive archaeological site, is one of the most famous tourist locations in the Turkish Republic of Cyprus. Over the centuries it was first Greek, then Assyrian, Persian, Ptolemaic and finally Roman. The period of greatest splendor coincided with Roman domination: the Gymnasium, the Temple of Zeus, the Theater of Augustus, the Baths and a Villa tell of the splendor and wealth in which the city lived from the 1st to the 6th century AD. C.
We then arrive at Famagusta (the ghost city), another unmissable stop. Having little time available, we focus on visiting the Citadel, a fortification of Lusignan origins, which is accessed from the Terra gate. Arriving in the main pedestrianized square, we visit the cathedral of St. Nicholas, now the Lala Mustafa Pasi mosque. On the opposite side of the church there are the arches and support columns of what was the Palazzo del Provveditore. Opposite there are the suggestive ruins of the church of San Francesco. A little further on you come across the beautiful church of Saints Peter and Paul, now the Sinan Pasa mosque. The grandiose Byzantine church of San Giorgio dei Greci of which only the enormous apse, a side wall and part of what was the entrance to the church remain. Finally, on the Othello tower and the ramparts surrounding the historic center to observe meadows, vegetable gardens and streets from which the ruins of dozens of Byzantine churches emerge.
We get back in the car and leave the Turkish Republic of Cyprus behind us with the awareness of not having dedicated enough time to discovering this part of the island, with its controversial nature, but with a wild charm and an ancient beauty that struck us in the deep. We cross the border for the last time and this time they ask us a few more questions, they check the trunk, but in a few minutes we are back in the Democratic Republic of Cyprus.
Once we arrive at our destination, Aya Napa welcomes us with bright lights, loud music and a center full of kitsch clubs. The contrast between the two areas is strong and once again it seems like the world has changed. But, city center aside, it is the coast of this part of the island that interests us, we dedicate ourselves to relaxation and the sea.
Day 12: Gliki Nero Beach, Bridge of lovers, Ammos Kambouri Beach, Limnara Beach
La mattina ci concediamo un po’ di relax alla Glyki Nero beach, one kilometer east of Aya Napa. Its name which in Greek means "sweet water" and derives from the fact that once upon a time there was a source of fresh water that flowed from the rocks at the edge of its coast. It is a well-equipped beach with the possibility of having fun with many water sports. On the top of the hill there are many restaurants and typical taverns. We chose this beach because it is an excellent starting point for a walk along a well-marked route through the fabulous coasts of the Capo Greco park.
Tips for Tips: all the beaches are equipped by the municipality and umbrellas and two deckchairs can be rented at a fixed price of 7 euros for the whole day.
After lunch we set off along the coasts of the park. We stop at Bridge of Lovers for some photos.
We cross the Wooden Bridge with locks, more because of the street than for its beauty. We treat ourselves to a bath and drink something cold atAmmos Kambouri beach. Infine un po’ di relax sulla Limnara Beach before repeating the journey backwards on our steps. After this first day our expectations of the park were certainly not disappointed, the coast is fascinating and the sea is crystal clear.
Day 13: Nissi beach and Macronissi beach
We focus on the west coast visiting the famous beaches of Nissi And Makronissi.
There Nissi Beach è incastrata in una bellissima baia ed è considerata una delle più belle spiagge della Repubblica democratica di Cipro. Un piccolo paradiso di soffice sabbia bianca, bagnato da un mare trasparente e cristallino che passa dall’azzurro al turchese fino al blu brillante con fondali sabbiosi. Tutto intorno un ambiente quasi esotico con palme, circondato da verdi montagne che si uniscono a scogliere marine ed un piccolo isolotto sospeso nel mare che si può raggiungere con una brevissima camminata in acqua. Durante le giornate di bassa marea questo percorso sommerso emerge dividendo il mare in due. La spiaggia è meta di tantissimi turisti, meglio arrivare la mattina presto per godersi l’acqua limpida e un po’ di calma prima dell’arrivo del turismo di massa. La spiaggia è molto ben attrezzata e sul litorale ci sono tantissimi ristoranti, taverne e locali dove mangiare. Al pomeriggio la spiaggia si anima, si balla in riva al mare e (ahimè) partono gli schiuma party.
Even further east there Makronissos beach, decisamente più tranquilla ma altrettanto bella. Inoltre per chi ha voglia di esplorare ci sono molto sentieri che dalla spiaggia principale portano ad altre piccole spiaggette. C’è anche una piccola laguna che si è formata e che si mescola in un piccolo spazio col mare. Seguendo le indicazioni arriverete alle ancient tombs by the sea.
Day 14: Konnos beach, Cyclops cave, Blue lagoon, Cape Greco, Sea caves
In the northern Cape Greco Forest National Park there is one of the most beautiful beaches in Cyprus Konnos Bay. La spiaggia è racchiusa in una bellissima baia con alle spalle montagne rocciose che regalano uno scenario dall’alto veramente da lasciare senza fiato. Un litorale di sabbia bianca con riflessi argento per via delle sue origini vulcaniche, bagnato da un mare dal colore turchese intenso con acque pulite e cristalline.
From here a series of natural routes start which, through the jagged coast full of bays, lead up to the Cave of the Cyclops.
In the afternoon we cross the heart of the park and go up to Greek leader, we walk along the dirt paths where there are a multitude of rare flowers, plants and vegetables and we can spot foxes, hares and hedgehogs and we overlook the high rocky coasts of the park. Finally we stop at Sea Caves, a spectacle of nature without equal, we remain enraptured.
Day 15: Departure
Il nostro aereo parte nel pomeriggio per cui passiamo il tempo che ci rimane a zonzo per capo greco, e la sua spettacolare natura, e dopo un ultimo pranzo vista mare ci dirigiamo in aeroporto. Il sapore di Cipro ci accompagnerà ancora per un pò…