Ljubljana is the largest and most populous city in Slovenia, as well as its capital. It is certainly a city on a human scale with a historic center completely closed to traffic and many green areas surrounding it. It holds the title of "Green Capital of Europe", a well-deserved award for having managed to reduce private car traffic and increase circulation via public transport or pedestrians.
We visited it in autumn and the colors of nature left us speechless but the impression is that it is a journey that can be done at any time of the year, to always discover new colours.
Our bridge, 1250 km long, lasted 5 days. If you are curious to find out more, here are the stages it was made up of.
Day 1: Historic center
We left in the late morning, the early part of Paolino's classic first day of travel, not yet getting into the holiday mood. After 5 hours on the road, greasy sandwiches in the car, songs out of tune and the usual roadworks in progress (I think the same ones we found 5 years earlier to go to Croatia) we arrive at our destination and it is already dark.
Tips for Trips: To drive on the motorway in Slovenia it is necessary to purchase the vignette, a square-shaped sign made up of two parts, a tag which must be removed and kept and an upper, adhesive part which must be displayed clearly visible on the windshield. This can be found both in petrol stations in Slovenia and in neighboring countries and has different durations, we opted for the weekly vignette. The validity of the six-monthly, monthly and weekly vignette is indicated by a perforation which will be applied to the vignette by the retailer himself.
Our room is in the center, a few steps from Dragon Bridge, symbol of the city. From the window we look out onto the outdoor tables of the restaurants in the street below us (despite the unforgiving climate they are packed with people and festively lit). The river Ljubljanica it flows a few meters away and in front you can see the characteristic Central Market beyond the Butchers' Bridge adorned with modern sculptures but also with padlocks tied to the balustrades (it seems to have been awarded the title of "Bridge of Love" by the local kids).
Day 2: Vintgar Gorge, Šum Waterfalls and Lake Bled
Ready to go we move from Ljubljana, there are some wonderful excursions that we cannot miss, natural beauties that close their gates to tourists in November, so let's make the most of these last days of October.
First stop, 50 minutes from Ljubljana, is the Vintgar Gorge. With its 1.6 km length, it winds between the high vertical walls of the Hom and Boršt mountains and is carved by the Radovna river, forming waterfalls and rapids. The gorge is crossed by a pedestrian path on wooden bridges. It goes without saying that, with the overpowering and intense autumn colours, the landscape leaves us speechless... we immerse ourselves in nature and not even the cold seems so biting anymore.
At the end of the route, about 1.5 km from the entrance, we find a majestic single-arch stone bridge: this is the Old Railway Bridge in Bohinj, 33.5 meters high and 65 meters long. Built between 1904 and 1905 and today the largest stone arch railway bridge still preserved in its entirety in Slovenian territory.
Once we pass the exit turnstile we find ourselves in front of the bar. In the back there is a steep staircase leading down to a small valley. At the bottom of the stairs there are signs for the spectacular Šum Waterfall: it is the same stream that crosses the Gorge which flows impetuously and continues its path. Under the waterfall there is also a small hydroelectric power plant which, however, is not visible.
From here there are two different routes to return to the entrance. If you proceed beyond the Šum waterfall, in a south-eastern direction uphill on Mount Hom, you can arrive at the picturesque church dedicated to Sv. Katarina above the village of Zasip. From here you can enjoy a splendid panorama of the Karavanke chain, the Julian Alps, including Triglav, and the Bled valley. The second route (or continuation of the first) passes through the town of Blejska Dobrava. Turning left past the Šum waterfall and crossing the bridge you proceed along a steep staircase which quickly leads upwards to the village of Blejska Dobrava. Continuing along the asphalt road past the houses to the end of the town you reach a path in the woods that takes you back to the log cabin at the entrance to the gorge.
Hours: Every day. Weekends and holidays in April: from 9.00 to 17.00; April on weekdays: from 10.00 to 16.00; 1 May – 26 May from 9.00 to 17.00; 27 May – 23 June: from 8.00 to 18.00; 24 June – 15 August: from 7.30 to 19.00; 16 August – 10 September: from 8.00 to 18.00; 11 September – 8 October: from 8.00 to 17.00; 11 October – 31 October: from 9.00 to 16.00.
For lunch we move on Lake Bled, in the south-west part, the closest to the island of the same name. As soon as you arrive, a real postcard landscape opens up in a fairy-tale atmosphere. In the center of the lake is the little girl Bled Island, the only natural island in Slovenia which is said to stand where a temple dedicated to Živa, the pagan goddess of life and fertility, once stood. There are several buildings on the island including the baroque Church of the Assumption and the Provost's House, currently used as a museum. Furthermore, on the southern bank there is a long staircase of 99 steps: according to a popular tradition, on the wedding day, the groom must walk up it holding the bride in his arms to ensure that the marriage is successful.