After New Year's Eve we finally have some well-deserved holidays, acquired suddenly. We need a place that can be reached in a short time and with costs incurred, given that we were unable to book and organize in time.
The beautiful Bavarian castles with a few stops in nearby Tyrol seem like the perfect idea to us! We organize the stages, book the hotels and are ready for a "last minute" tour. Here is our 6-day itinerary between Germany and Austria, 1400 km long.
Day 1: Ettal – Linderhof Castle
We've planned everything, we're pumped, we're ready... and we wake up late! A wash, a squeeze and we're in the car straight away. After almost 6 hours we reach Germany.
Tips for Trips: To get to Germany from Italy we cross Switzerland and Austria. In both countries, to drive on the motorway you must purchase a vignette.
The Swiss motorway vignette has a single cost of 42 euros and is valid for one year (there are no daily, weekly or monthly motorway vignettes). It can be purchased in all motorway restaurants in Switzerland or in neighboring countries and must be placed on the windscreen before entering any motorway in the country. If you cross through the Brogeda customs you can conveniently purchase it at the service station immediately before crossing.
The Austrian motorway vignette has three different durations: 10 days, bimonthly and annual. We purchase the first one at a cost of around 9.40 euros. This can also be purchased at all petrol stations at the border, must be validated by drilling directly at the time of purchase and must be placed on the windshield. In Austria there are also some toll roads, where the vignette alone is not enough and to access them there are the classic toll booths. On the way back we cross one to get to Innsbruck.
Before reaching Füssen we stop at Linderhof Castle, in the Graswang Valley. Of the three castles commissioned by Ludwig II, it is the only one that was completed. Despite being the smallest, it is one of the most sumptuous as well as the most loved by the Bavarian king who, in love with the French style, wanted to transform a hunting lodge into a small palace.
The castle can only be accessed with a guided tour but, in our opinion, it is unmissable. Room after room one cannot help but admire the boundless opulence of the castle and appreciate its extravagance, the result of the king's eccentric desires. Shy and reserved, he had the Tischlein-deck-dich, a dining table which, via a pulley system, disappeared into the floor down to the floor below where the kitchens were located. In this way the table could be set without the king being disturbed by the attendants during the meal. Nocturnal and industrious, he built the Room of Mirrors, so that each wall could reflect as much light as possible and be able to write even at night.
Dreamer and visionary, he built the Cave of Venus, an artificial cave with an underground lake where he loved to spend hours of meditation on a fairy-tale shell-shaped boat, lulled by the sound of the water. Underwater lights illuminate the stalactites, creating a very suggestive dreamlike effect. Due to restoration work, the Cave of Venus is closed indefinitely so we are unable to visit it.
Finally, although we were unable to visit it - as it is closed in winter - we also mention the Castle Park. This seems to be the combination of the king's attraction for the East, the world of medieval chivalry and the splendor of the Bourbon court. Waterfalls, pavilions, fountains and statues embellish the garden which, however, are covered in winter to be protected from the cold. We promise to return in the summer!
Castle opening hours: Every day (except January 1st, December 24th, 25th and 31st). April – 15 October: from 9.00 to 18.00. 16 October – March: from 10.00 – 16.30. Pavilion opening hours: Every day. April – 15 October: from 9.00 to 18.00. Water games: Every day. April – 15 October: from 9.00 to 18.00 (every half hour).
In the evening we enjoy an excellent Bavarian-style dinner and take a tour of Füssen still lit up by Christmas lights. The city center is very characteristic, full of half-timbered houses decorated with drawings and frescoes and the shopping streets are decorated with typical wrought iron signs.
Day 2: Füssen – Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles
We wake up very early and leave for Schwangau, today on the program is a visit to the two castles of Ludwing II, Neuschwanstein And Hohenschwangau. The interiors can only be visited via guided tour. We tried to get the entrance tickets online, but for several weeks they have all been taken. We don't give up and head to the ticket office anyway. Despite a fairly long queue we manage to catch them with enough time between the two to also enjoy a tour of the exteriors.
Tips for Trips: Tickets can be purchased in advance online, a part of these is "unlocked" morning by morning, but the remaining part is reserved for visitors directly on site so arriving early there are no problems. The visits are in German or English with audio guides in all languages (including Italian).
Let's start with the very famous and beautiful “Fairytale Castle” by Neuschwanstein. The entrance can be reached by horse-drawn carriages, by bus or on foot on an asphalt route of about 20 minutes (our choice).
The castle was entirely designed by King Ludwing II who wanted to create a sort of imaginary kingdom where he could hide and escape his fate. Following the defeat in the Prussian war, in fact, Bavaria was dependent on Prussia in foreign policy and the king had to renounce command of his army, effectively becoming a "puppet king" without power.
The castle can be considered a monument dedicated to the composer, friend and idol of the king, Wagner, who considered his work almost like a religion. The king committed all his assets to the construction of the castle. All the rooms are decorated with Wagnerian motifs as if to make the entire structure a permanent theater dedicated to music and the arts. The exception is Throne Room which recreates a sacred atmosphere similar to a Palatine Chapel of the Norman Palace in Palermo. The top floor is entirely dedicated to Singers' Hall, the king's favorite project, decorated with scenes from the stories of Lohengrin and Parsifal.
Confirming the eccentricity of the sovereign, between the hall and the king's study there is a secret passage: a small artificial cave equipped with an artificial waterfall. Next to it is a small winter garden from which it is possible to observe the landscape surrounding the castle. Although the castle is inspired by a medieval ideal, it is equipped with all the most modern conquests and maximum comforts. The royal residential wing was heated with a central air system. Running water was available on all floors, even hot and cold water in the kitchen. The bathrooms had automatic flushes. The king called the servants via a system of electric bells. The dining room was connected to the kitchens (which were three floors below) via a service elevator to bring the still hot food to the table.
Of the 200 commissioned rooms only 15 were completed before the king's death: he lived in total only 172 days of his life at the castle.
Hours: Every day (except January 1st, December 24th, 25th and 31st). April - October 15: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. October 16 - March: 10am - 4pm.
Once the visit is over we head to Marienbrücke, a bridge that crosses the Pöllat Gorge and overlooks Neuschwanstein, offering a breathtaking view of the entire castle. Unfortunately the fog covers the whole view, we go down to the valley a little disappointed!
SPOILER: After the visit to Hohenschwangau Castle we realize that the fog has cleared and Neuschwanstein Castle is visible again. We run to catch the first bus that takes us to the top and enjoy the fantastic view of the castle!
Hours: Every day 24 hours a day. May be closed depending on weather conditions.
After lunch we take a tour around Lake Alpsee, considered one of the cleanest lakes in Germany. On the southern shore of the lake there is a small establishment which also offers the possibility of a rowing boat ride offering a splendid view of the castles and in the coldest period the lake transforms into a large skating rink.
The time has come for the visit to Castle of Hohenschwangau, which can only be visited via a guided tour. This too can be reached via a horse-drawn carriage or on foot via an asphalt path that runs alongside the woods (30 minutes) or a staircase that starts from the town center (20 minutes).
It cannot be considered one of Ludwing II's castles since it was his father, King Maximilian II, who had it built as a summer residence on the splendid Alpsee lake. It certainly had a decisive role in the life of the Bavarian sovereign, probably influencing his dreamer and visionary character: here he spent his childhood and a good part of his youth, very often hosting his venerated friend Richard Wagner. And it was precisely here that he became acquainted, thanks to the pictorial representations that adorn the rooms, with the various medieval legends: among all, the legend of "Lohengrin", the "Swan Knight", with whom Ludwig later identified himself, stands out. Upon his father's death, the eccentric Ludwing II had stars painted on the ceiling of his bedroom, illuminated by hidden oil lamps. This is the only change he made to the castle.
Hours: Every day. April - October 15: from 9:00 to 18:00; October 16 - March: 10am to 4pm.
Happy we get back in the car, direction Monk. For dinner we make a small detour and stop at Oberammergau, a small town made very characteristic by its houses splendidly frescoed with scenes depicting the best-known fairy tales.
Day 3: Munich
Munich is the most important city in Bavaria. It is a cosmopolitan city, which has managed to go beyond the traditional Bavarian spirit while preserving ancient traditions. Although it is best known for the traditional Oktoberfest, it is a city worth visiting at any time of year. During the Christmas period it is filled with lights, markets, ice rinks, food stalls and very tall Christmas trees.
Metro stop Odeonsplatz, our tour begins from here.
At the exit we appear before us, tall and majestic Feldherrnhalle, built between 1841 and 1844 by the architect Friedrich von Gärtner on behalf of King Ludwig I, as a tribute to the glory of the Bavarian army. From here we cross the Hofgartentor, a monumental door that takes us directly toHofgarten, the garden of the architectural complex of the Monaco Residence. In the center we find the temple dedicated to Diana, the four twin fountains and at the back the Bavarian Chancellery - the regional government building - built in the former Weapons Museum.
After the tour of the garden we visit the Münchner Residenz, one of the largest royal palaces in Europe. The complex was built at the behest of Duke William IV to replace the Neuveste – an old fortress – but over the years it has been expanded and renovated several times. The Residence today constitutes one of the most beautiful museums in Munich with more than 130 rooms open to the public with a mix of different styles ranging from Renaissance to neoclassical, from Baroque to Rococo.
Opening hours: April – 15 October: from 09:00 to 18:00 (last entry 17:00); 16 October – March: from 10:00 to 17:00 (last entry 16:00).
From plan we should have continued the tour with a walk in the English garden, of which theHofgarten it is a natural continuation, but due to the bad weather we decide to "skip the stage" - and note it in our TO-DO list - and head to the centre. On the way we cross a small courtyard with a loggia and a very particular tower: it is theAlter Hof, the old royal palace. Most of the palace's wings were destroyed during World War II and subsequently rebuilt. In the Corte Vecchia wing there is a museum and the information centre.
It's time for lunch and we dive into Viktualienmark, the most famous and oldest city market in Munich. The market, which occupies approximately 22,000 m2, hosts 140 stalls selling food products of all kinds, Christmas decorations and decorations, household items, flowers and spices. The area is very lively and full of kiosks, restaurants and pubs all around. The perfect place to take a break.
Hours: Every day. From 8:00 to 19:00.
Behind the market you can already see it, and it is one of the stops I was waiting for the most! The first peak of this trip is theAlter Peter, the bell tower of the beautiful Peterskirche and I can't wait, Paolino is already snorting loudly. The bell tower is approximately 96 meters high and "only" 306 steps are enough to reach one of the best panoramic points from which it is possible to admire the city from above.
We also visit the Peterskirche, Munich's oldest parish church. The church is in late Baroque and Rococo style. Inside it is possible to admire an imposing baroque altar and in one of the side chapels there is a shrine with the skeleton of Santa Mundizia, the protector of single women.
We walk along Sendlinger Straße to number 32 where one of the city's hidden jewels is located Asamkirche. The religious building, also known as the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, was built by the Asam brothers as a place of private worship and was later opened to all. The entrance portal is decorated with bas-reliefs representing San Giovanni. Inside, the main nave is full of frescoes, stuccoes and sculptures. The main altar houses a glass sarcophagus with the remains of St. John of Nepomuk. Attached to the church we are also struck by the Asamhaus, another masterpiece created by the Asam brothers. The facade of the palace is decorated with stuccos representing the arts and sciences, Athena, Apollo, the muses and further allegorical figures.
We return to the center and visit the Frauenkirche which is also known as the Cathedral of Our Lady. The Church is known for its bell towers almost one hundred meters high and covered with copper domes. The Church, during the Second World War, was hit hard by bombing, while the towers remained unscathed and appear to us to be over 400 years old.
Finally we aim for the heart of the city, Marienplatz the most famous square with the Mariensäule, the column of the Virgin and theAltes Rathaus, the old town hall. The beautiful also overlooks here Neues Rathaus, the neo-Gothic style municipal building with the Clock tower and its Music box which is activated twice a day in winter (Nov-Feb. 11:00 and 12:00) and three times in summer (Tue-Oct. 11:00, 12:00 and 17:00). Obviously we cannot miss a visit to the palace and the Tower, no steps to climb, just an elevator, for the other long-awaited stage!
Hours: November - April: (Monday to Friday) 10am to 5pm; May - October: (every day) from 10:00 to 19:00 (excluding holidays).
Our day ends with a Bavarian style dinner atHofbräuhaus the most famous brewery in the city. His brewery is part of the "seven sisters", or the seven historic breweries of the region. The factory was commissioned by William V who wanted to produce beer for his army. Today, in addition to a brewery, it is also a good restaurant where you can taste typical dishes. The walls are frescoed with scenes of popular life while the staff is dressed in traditional Bavarian clothes. The environment is very particular, characterized by typical music, songs from the guests and lots of laughter between tables shared by strangers who are friends at the end of the meal.
Hours: Every day. From 9:00 to 23:30.
Day 4: Chiemsee – Herrenchiemsee Castle
We leave Munich and make our way towards the Herrenchiemsee Castle, the “Bavarian Versailles”. The castle is located on the island of Herreninsel, in Lake Chiemsee. To reach it we take the ferry from the pretty village of Prien am Chiemsee.
The facade is an exact copy of that of Versailles: Herrenchiemsee It presents itself as a hymn to the power and glory of the Sun King, Louis XIV of France, and Ludwig II, always an admirer of this mythical historical figure, decided to build a castle that was the exact copy of the French original. The construction of this, combined with the expenses incurred for other palaces, practically ruined the king, who despite this only spent 10 days inside Herremchiemsee. The palace was never completed: at the king's death, 50 rooms were still missing to be built. The unfinished left wing was later demolished while the right wing was never built.
The visit to this castle is a walk in opulence, in unbridled luxury, but also in the king's fantasies and his obsessions. There are references to Versailles everywhere, both in the design of the palace and in the furnishings, with busts of Louis XIV and other French nobles from the era of absolutism. Here too there is no shortage of extravagances and whims typical of the king. The Great Hall of Mirrors was illuminated by more than 30 glass chandeliers and more than 50 candelabras for a total of 7,000 candles, which required 70 servants half an hour to light. In the room, at the foot of the bed, he had a blue glass globe installed which was intended to illuminate the room with a soft blue light. In the dining room we find the Tischlein-deck-dich, a dining table which, via a pulley system, disappeared into the floor up to the floor where the kitchens were located. In this way the table could be set without the king being disturbed by the attendants during the meal.
Hours: Every day. April - October: from 9:00 to 18:00 (last entry at 17:00); November - March: from 9.40am to 4.15pm (last entry at 3.40pm).
Before leaving we stop in the port of Prien am Chiemsee, we eat in a small restaurant overlooking the lake and take a walk along the pier.
In the late afternoon we arrive in Salzburg, just in time for a walk Getreidegasse, a busy shopping street in the historic Altstadt (Old Town), characterized by the medieval wrought iron signs of ancient traditional shops. From here, through courtyards and small squares, we begin to familiarize ourselves with the city still under the influence of Christmas with markets, trees and lights.
Day 5: Salzburg
Salzburg is a beautiful city in Austria, one of the most fascinating. It enjoys a very particular position at the foot of the Untersberg mountain and is bathed by the Salzach river which divides the heart of the city between the "historic center of the right bank" and the "historic center of the left bank" connected to each other by many bridges. The city is a concentration of medieval streets, baroque buildings and hidden courtyards. Just stroll through the alleys of the old town to feel the elegance of Salzburg.
Tips for trips: To visit the city and many of its attractions we purchased the Salzburg Card. In addition to allowing free entry, skipping the queues, to the main places of interest in the city - with entry to the castle, Mozart's house the ticket and at the Domquartier the price is covered – it also includes the use of all city buses for free.
Our tour begins from Hohensalzburg Fortress, symbol of the city. Located above the highest part of the Festungsberg, it dominates Salzburg, offering a splendid view over the city's rooftops. To get to the top you can take the funicular, or take a panoramic walk, a little challenging in some places. We choose the funicular (the ticket is included in the Salzburg Card) and reach the courtyard. In addition to enjoying the wonderful panorama we visit the Fortress Museum, the tower and the Rainer Regimental Museum. The third floor of the fortress also houses the Rooms of the Princes – visit included in the Salzburg Card for entries before 11:00 -, the Golden stube with the Majolica stove and the Golden Hall with the original furnishings from the 1500s. An absolute must is the panoramic tour, which takes you from the salt warehouse through the underground to the panoramic platform of the Reckturm, where there is one of the most beautiful views of the city. The tour then continues through the battlements to the famous Salzburg Bull. Along the entire route, the explorer's notebook and the little owl Albi kept us company. In theory it's a little game for children where if you answer all the questions about the fortress and draw a friend for Albi you win a prize... we collected the prize, a magnet.
Hours: Every day. January – April: 9.30am - 5.00pm. May – September: 8:00 - 20:00 (Museums, Prince's Rooms, Magic Theater 9:00 - 19:00). October – December: 9.30am - 5.00pm. Advent and Easter weekend: 9.30am - 6.00pm. December 24: 09:30 - 14:00
Descending from the fortress, we cross Kapitelplatz until Domplatz where theUntersberg, The Salzburg Cathedral, with its splendid façade and imposing dome. The cathedral has survived 6 fires and the dates of three consecrations of the church are indicated on the entrance gates: 774, 1628 and 1959.
The nave, 101 meters long and 32 meters high, has a series of chapels on both sides, each with a specific altar. The main altar is completely made of marble and houses an altarpiece illustrating the resurrection of Christ. The dome of the cathedral, 71 meters high, is divided into octagons painted with scenes from the Old Testament created in 1955 to copy the original paintings which were destroyed with the collapse of 1944. The crypt, built in Romanesque style and dating back to the project of the first cathedral, it houses the bodies of many of the archbishops of Salzburg which are sealed by pink marble slabs engraved with their name and surmounted by the archbishop's coat of arms.
We move to the nearby Residenzplatz – the third square that borders the Duomo – where the DomQuartier, a cultural center that includes the Cathedral, the Residence and the Benedictine Monastery of S. Pietro. A single cumulative ticket – included in the Salzburg Card – includes the Halls of the Residence, the Residenz Galerie and the Cathedral Museum, where you pass near the organ gallery with a beautiful view of the central nave and up Residenzplatz.
Hours: Wednesday-Monday: 10am to 5pm. July and August every day: from 10:00 to 18:00. Advent and Christmas/New Year until Epiphany (6/1) every day: from 10:00 to 17:00 (closed: 24/12).
Starting from Mozartplatz we cross Getreidegasse – this time during the day – up to number 9 where there is an exceptional bell: in 1756 the child prodigy of Salzburg was born here, Mozart. Today it is the headquarters of Mozart Museum set up since 1880. Today not only the musical instruments of little Mozart are on display, but also furniture, paintings and letters from the family and autographs. We find it a bit disappointing and not very organised. We decide to console ourselves with a tasty lunch in a typical restaurant.
Hours: Every day from 9:00 to 17:30.
After lunch we take a long walk along the Salzach and move to the right bank. We are very struck by the houses carved into the rock that seem to disappear inside.
From Makartplatz, crossing the gap between Landestheatre and the hotel, the Mirabell Gardens. The fountain in the center of the garden is surrounded by four large marble groups that symbolize the 4 elements of nature. Climbing a few steps from the Pegasus fountain you reach the garden of the dwarfs. In winter some parts are closed to tourists but they are always worth a walk.
We pass Makertplatz again and arrive at number 14 of Linzergasse, we cross a portal from 1617 and go up the steep climb - where we find statues representing the posts of the Via Crucis - which leads to the mountain Kapuzinenberg et al Capuchin Convent. Many trekking routes around the mountain start from here. Around the convent there are many panoramic points that offer a splendid view of the city and the fortress. We go back down via an alternative route: a steep but shorter staircase that leads us directly into Linzer Gasse Platzl a small square full of kiosks and shops. We end the day with a Weihnachtspunsch.
Day 6: Innsbruck
Today is the day of the return, but we break the journey with a first stop in Terfens, 25 kilometers from Innsbruck. Here it is Haus Steht Kopf, the upside-down house designed in 2012 by Polish architects Irek Glowacki and Marek Rozanski. Once inside we are catapulted into a parallel world where everything is upside down, even walking through the rooms becomes a real challenge. It is not only the house that is upside down but also all the furnishings and objects are hanging from the ceiling. The floors in each room change inclination, conveying a sense of instability that makes the visit even more fun!
Hours: May - June: from 10:00 to 18:00. July - August: from 9:00 to 20:00. September - October: from 10:00 to 19:00. November - April: 10am to 4pm
As a last stop we visit the characteristic town of Innsbruck, in Austria. We cross theArch of Triumph which marks the entrance to the city, built in 1765 for the wedding of Archduke Leopold.
We stop in Maria-Theresien-Straße for lunch. This street is one of the best known in Innsbruck, surrounded by colorful buildings, shops and clubs. In the center of the square there Column of Sant'Anna, a monument in which the Madonna of S. Anna and the patron saints of the Tyrolean lands are depicted. It's also worth a stop Church of the Hospital of the Holy Spirit (passing towards the centre).
We enter the historic center up to Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 15, where the Habsburg Residence with the famous Golden Roof, roof covered with 2657 golden tiles, symbol of Innsbruck.
We end our holiday in style with a "climb" to the Civic Tower, located a few steps from Golden Roof. Climbing 133 steps we reach the top, from which medieval sentries kept the city under control. The panorama ranges from the alleys of the historic center to the view of the snow-capped mountain peaks that stand out around the city.
And now we head back home, a little tired, but satisfied! The beauty of the places we saw is indisputable and can be appreciated in every season but probably, without the magic of snow, it is better to visit these places in the warmer periods so that you can admire them among the flowers and fountains.