Copenhagen is a city that has always fascinated me, perhaps because despite the very (too?) cold climate it has always given me warmth and welcome. Modern and historic at the same time, it is the essence of Scandinavian style, it is a palette of colors, it is rich in historic buildings and design. It is certainly a city on a human scale, as we like it, and can be visited easily on foot on a long weekend.
Here is our 4-day itinerary between Copenhagen and Malmö.
Day 1: Tivoli Garden, Strøget and TorvehallerneKBH
Let's start our first day with a visit to the Tivoli Gardens. Opened on August 15, 1843, it is the second oldest amusement park to have survived intact to this day. When Tivoli was built, it was located outside the western gate of the city, but today the Town Hall square is a few minutes' walk away and the Central Station is across the street, so it's very easy to get to.
Tivoli manages to combine exotic architecture with historic buildings and is full of lush gardens. The attractions, so different from each other, adapt perfectly to this parallel world of fantasy. Some are spectacularly nostalgic like the oldest ride in the park, the 1914 wooden roller coaster, one of seven roller coasters in the world where there is still a person on board who manually takes care of the braking. Others are super modern and moments of pure adrenaline like the Vertigo which reaches a speed of 100 km/h and I can assure you gives even the most fearless a hard time. These days it is decorated with a Halloween theme, which makes the experience even more magical and exhilarating. Needless to say, Paolino and I feel like children again and let ourselves be carried away by the wonder of the place and its atmosphere!
Hours: Sunday - Thursday: from 11:00 to 23:00; Friday and Saturday: from 11:00 to 24:00. Summer opening from 4 April to 22 September; opening for Halloween from 11 October to 3 November; Christmas holidays opening from November 16th to January 5th.We leave the park happy and smooth and head towards the centre. Let's cross Rådhusplads, where is the Copenhagen City Hall – we will return here in the next few days to visit the interior and the tower – and from here we take the Strøget, a pedestrian area in the heart of Copenhagen. It is the set of several streets in succession that make up the longest pedestrian street in Europe. At the other end is Kongens Nytorv and in between an infinite number of shops – only a few are typical Danish (particularly the designer shops), while the majority are the big international fashion brands – numerous bars and restaurants.
We end the day at TorvehallerneKBH, Copenhagen's largest indoor food market. Opened only in 2011, it consists of two pavilions and a large outdoor space where there are many stalls and shops of all kinds. It offers a wide range of fresh local foods including herbs, smoked meats, fish, cheeses and coffee. Like all markets, it offers a characteristic and colorful environment, full of life even if very modern and tidy. On Fridays it stays open until 8pm, so after a nice tour around all the stalls we sit at the counter and have a bite to eat while sipping some good wine at the end of a wonderful first day!
Hours: Every day. Monday - Thursday: from 10:00 to 19:00; Friday: until 8pm; Saturday: until 6pm; Sunday: from 11:00 to 17:00.Day 2: Rosenborg Castle, Kastellet Fortress, the Little Mermaids and Nyhavn
The second day begins with a visit to Rosenborg Castle, in the green lung of Copenhagen. A real fairytale castle made of moats, drawbridges and lots of greenery, it immediately strikes you with the contrast between the walls made of red bricks and the roof, the towers and the green copper spiers.
The castle was built between 1606 and 1624 as a royal residence at the behest of King Christian IV of Denmark. After the reign of Frederick IV of Denmark, the castle was used as the home of a royal family on only two other occasions, both of extraordinary emergencies. The first time was in 1794 when Christiansborg Palace burned down, and the second during the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801. Since 1833, the King's Castle and Gardens have been open to the public. The Danish Royal House has transformed the palace into a large museum where the crown jewels and treasures are kept, spanning a period of four hundred years, from 1500 to 1900. The interiors are, in our opinion, the most striking part for the rooms of astonishing beauty: rooms with frescoed ceilings and furnished with period furniture, prized art collections of the Royal Household and evocative cellars where the Crown jewels are kept.
Hours: January - April: Tuesday / Sunday from 10:00 to 14:00; May - June: Monday / Sunday from 10:00 to 16:00; June - August: Monday / Sunday from 09:00 to 17:00; September - October: Monday / Sunday from 10:00 to 16:00; November - December 22: Tuesday / Sunday from 10:00 to 14:00; December 27 - December 30: Tuesday / Friday from 10:00 to 16:00.Around the castle are worth a visit Royal Gardens, or Kongens Have, built in the 17th century, at the behest of Christian IV. These gardens represent the oldest park in Denmark. A vegetable garden was also created inside them, useful for providing supplies to the castle court. In the park there are several statues of well-known figures, Kings and Queens, including that of the famous Danish writer Hans Andersen.
We then reach the Kastellet Fortress. Also called "the Citadel" it is an ancient military fortification, star-shaped with bastions at the corners and surrounded by the waters of a moat. The Citadel has two main entrances to access: the King's Gate on the south side, facing the city, and the Gate of Norway – the one from which we choose to enter – on the north side of the fortification, both dating back to 1663 as part of the original citadel. They are built in the Dutch Baroque style and are on the inner side flanked by gatekeepers. Inside it is made up of tidy red houses with sloping roofs. The main reason for our visit is the very famous Windmill located at the southwestern corner of the citadel. It dates back to 1817 and is the only mill left standing. In 1800, in fact, 16 mills had been built on the ramparts to guarantee safe supplies of food to the fortified city.
Finally, leaving the Kings Gate we admire the Gefjon Fountain, depicts the legend of the birth of Zeeland, the island on which Copenhagen is located. Legend has it that Gefjun had asked the king of Sweden for the land and that he had promised her a kingdom as large as the one she could plow in one night; the woman transformed her children into oxen and dug up an enormous quantity of earth, which was poured into the sea, creating Zeeland. The statue of the fountain represents Gefjun who encourages his children transformed into oxen to work. Next to the fountain stands the majestic St Alban's Church, in neo-Gothic style.
Hours: Every day from 6:00 to 22:00.The next stop is the undisputed symbol of the city, the very famous one Little Mermaid of Copenhagen. For those who aren't aware, it is a bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen inspired by the protagonist of the fairy tale of the same name by the Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen. It was commissioned in 1909 by Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg, who had been fascinated by a ballet at the Royal Theater in Copenhagen, which represented the fairy tale of the Little Mermaid on stage. The sculpture is located on a rock on the Langelinie riverfront, at the entrance to the port of Copenhagen. With her gaze turned towards the sea, the Little Mermaid scans the horizon, awaiting the hopeful arrival of her Prince Charming.
However, we also want to dedicate some time to her less famous but equally beautiful sister, the Genetically Modified Little Mermaid. It is a work by the artist Bjørn Nørgaard, created for the Danish pavilion at the Hanover World Expo in 2000. In 2006, however, it was decided to place it on a small island on the surface of the water in a new square next door at one of the old warehouses in the port of Copenhagen, 'Dahlerups Pakhus'. It is part of a group of sculptures called 'The Genetically Modified Paradise'.
This second day has also come to an end and we are heading towards Nyhavn, the ancient port of Copenhagen. The central point of the city's tourism, it is already animated in the afternoon by the lights of the cafés and clubs of all kinds and warmed by the heat of the mushrooms on their terraces. We stop to drink something hot and thanks to the dim light of the candles, the smell of cinnamon, a little glogg (the local mulled wine) and sweet background music we discover and become familiar with theHygge, a sentiment so loved by the Danes.
Day 3: Malmö
One of the most interesting attractions in Copenhagen is the Øresund Bridge, which dives from the Danish capital into the Baltic Sea and reaches the shores of Sweden. This engineering masterpiece crosses the water and connects Copenhagen to Malmo, in about an hour.
We therefore dedicate a day to visiting Malmo, located in the extreme south of Sweden, the third largest and most populous city in the nation. The characteristic feature of the city is represented by the perfect harmony between past and modernity.
Once we arrive at the train station we head to Malmo Castle located in the green lung of the city and surrounded by the water of the moat. The building has a long history and has undergone several changes over the years. It was built in 1434 by order of King Eric of Pomerania. It was then demolished and rebuilt by the King of Denmark Christian II who made it his royal residence. In 1658 it was transformed first into a fortress and then into a prison. It was rebuilt again in the first thirty years of the 20th century, taking up the original one Renaissance style. Currently the building houses the most important museums in the city: the art Museum which houses the rich collection of Swedish and Nordic art with works from the 16th century to the present day; The civic Museum dedicated to the history of the city; The Natural History Museum dedicated mainly to the animal kingdom; The Maritime and Technology Museum.
Hours: every day from 10:00 to 17:00; Closing days: 24, 25 and 31 December; January 1st, August 15th and 15th.Around the Castle they are worth a stop Slottsparken and the Kungsparken, where you can walk and spend a few hours in contact with nature and animals, swans and ducks are at home. Slottsparken, "the castle park", is characterized by centuries-old trees, ponds, fountains and various sculptures. The Kungsparken, "the king's park", is the oldest in the city characterized by rare exotic trees, a windmill and the inevitable lakes and waterways. On the border with this park is the Civic Library, a modern structure, completely covered in glass which overlooks the adjacent park, an ideal place to dedicate yourself to reading in complete relaxation.
We move to the nearby neighborhood of Möllevångstorget, one of the most characteristic and colorful in Malmö. The buildings here have remained largely intact since the early 20th century and have a remarkably linear architecture. The central square is occupied by a lively city market selling products of all kinds. In the streets around there are numerous bars, cafes and multi-ethnic restaurants, where you can taste all the cuisines of the world. We don't miss a stop at Folkets Park, the oldest city park, dating back to the end of the nineteenth century. It was born as an attraction for the working class but following a thorough renovation, it has become one of the busiest areas and full of summer cultural events. Inside the park there are also numerous attractions for children such as the amusement park, a theatre, the zoo and the classic pony ride.
We return to the center and dedicate ourselves to the medieval heart of the city, the Gamla Staden. Let's start with Gustav Adolfs torg, built in the 19th century. Surrounded by trees, it is the perfect place for a stop where you can enjoy classic Swedish dishes on a bench, which can be purchased from the many kiosks that fill the square. Numerous events and the well-known Christmas markets are held here.
Let's walk through it Sodergatam (the shopping street) and we arrive at Crookedget, the largest and oldest square in Malmö. It was built in 1536 and houses one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, City Hall. The building was built in 1546 in Gothic style and then renovated in 1800 respecting the canons of Renaissance architecture.
Turning right, onto the small street of Kyrkogatan, we arrive at the majestic one Church of St. Peter, the oldest monument in the city. Its construction dates back to 1319 and is in Baltic Gothic style. The simple red brick facade and the 105 meter tower are the elements that characterize it. Inside the church is very simple and devoid of any decorative element, only the Traders' Chapel still features the frescoes of the past. The pulpit, the baptismal font and the Baroque-style altarpiece are the only rich elements of this Lutheran church.
Hours: every day from 9:00 to 17:30.We end our tour at Lilla Torg, the smallest and most characteristic square in the city. Built towards the end of the 16th century, it is characterized by medieval houses in red or colored bricks, with decorated facades, sloping roofs and a cobblestone street. Lilla Torg is also the hub of the city's nightlife. We treat ourselves to an aperitif in the warmth of a mushroom and illuminated by the Giant Lamp which illuminates Lilla Torg from sunset.
Day 4: Christiansborg Palace, Copenhagen City Hall, Vor Frelsers Kirke And Christiania
Our last day in Copenhagen begins with a visit to the Christiansborg Palace, the royal palace in Copenhagen, seat of the three powers of Denmark: the Parliament, the offices of the Minister of State and the Supreme Court. It is the only building in the world to have the three state bodies in it at the same time. Some parts of the palace, however, are used by the royal family, including the reception rooms, the royal chapel and the royal stables. Our tour starts from Marble Bridge original and dating back to 1745. Let's continue with the Christiansborg Ridebane (Riding School Complex) also in the Baroque style of the original palace. So let's get into it Christiansborg Slots through the main entrance and go up to the top of the tower, I certainly can't miss a panoramic point like this. We move into Royal Library Gardens crossing an arch facing the south side of the Christiansborg Slots. In the center of the garden is a magnificent fountain created as a hymn to the written word. Finally, to the south of the garden is the Det Kongelige Bibliotek and the famous Black Diamond, extension of the library from 1999 clad in black granite (for me perhaps a little too strong a combination).
Hours: April - October: every day from 09:00 to 17:00; November - March: Tuesday / Sunday 10am - 5pm (closed on Mondays).After a quick lunch we return to the centre, specifically to Rådhusplads, where is the Copenhagen City Hall. Copenhagen City Hall was built between 1892 and 1905 and was designed by architect Martin Nyrop in the National Romantic style. Today the Town Hall is used for Civic Council meetings, weddings and national holidays. Also kept inside is theWorld Clock by Jen Olsen which in addition to local time indicates solar time, sidereal time, the time at which the sun rises and sets, the migration of the celestial poles and stars, the revolution of the planets, the Gregorian calendar and even the holidays variable. We decide to take a guided tour of the interior and the City Hall Tower, which at 105.6 meters is one of the tallest buildings in Copenhagen. To reach it you need to climb more than 300 steps and there are no elevators (I can't miss this either!).
Town Hall opening hours: Monday - Friday from 9:00 to 16:00; Saturday from 9.30am to 1pm. Tower Hours: Monday - Friday at 11am and 2pm; Saturday at 12:00.We move Christianshavn, a neighborhood characterized by its canals and non-conformist and artistic atmosphere. We wander around the alleys for a bit and let ourselves be absorbed by its atmosphere.
We then move on to Vor Frelsers Kirke, one of the most anticipated stages of the trip. The church dates back to the late 1600s and includes a first block, approximately 36 meters high, which is completed with a splendid spiral spire that brings the building to a height of 90 metres. The organ inside is from 1698, it is truly huge and produces a sound that can be heard from a great distance. The carillon is made up of 48 bells which, every Saturday at 4pm, cheer up those around the church. The real pearl is the splendid one Spire of the Bell Tower, with the external spiral staircase and gold details. By climbing all 400 steps of the staircase you reach the top of the bell tower (90 m high), from which you can enjoy a breathtaking view. The last 150 steps are more exposed, you are protected only by a golden iron railing. Being built of oak wood inside, in strong winds, the spire sways slightly.
Hours: May - September: Monday / Saturday from 09.30 to 19.00; Sunday: 10:00 – 19:00; October - April: Monday / Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00; Sunday: 10.30am – 4.00pm.
We end the journey on a high note with what is certainly the most awaited stage. Christiania, also known as Free City of Christiania, is a self-governing neighborhood in the city of Copenhagen. Social experiment and utopia is based on the principles of respect and free will. It was founded in 1971 by a group of hippies who occupied a disused naval base on the outskirts of the Danish capital, made up of abandoned military buildings. Inside it is full of craft shops, restoration workshops, bars and restaurants and services for citizens, all totally self-managed. The Danish village has also become famous for its colorful buildings, for the famous Pusher Street, for the ban on car circulation and for the lack of law enforcement. Christiania remains a fairly safe place to visit as a tourist. Indeed, the main rules of the free city prohibit theft, violence, weapons and hard drugs.
Last Updated on 20 December 2024
