An excursion to Mount Koya, also known as Koyasan, represents a journey into the spiritual heart of Japan, giving those who visit an unforgettable experience.
Located in the mountains of Wakayama Prefecture, Mount Koya is the hub of Shingon Buddhism and home to over 100 temples and monasteries. This sacred place invites hikers to immerse themselves in its serenity and spirituality, following ancient paths that pass through majestic cedar forests and breathtaking views. Among thousand-year-old trees and ancient tombs, there is a mystical and contemplative atmosphere that affects every type of traveler.
An essential visit is the famous Okunoin, the largest cemetery in Japan, where thousands of stone lanterns illuminate the path leading to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Other places of great interest include the Kongobuji temple, renowned for its beautiful Zen gardens and meditation rooms, and the Danjo Garan, a complex of temples and sacred structures with a long history of religious practice.
However, to fully enjoy this excursion without giving up the most beautiful attractions, having a well-organized program is essential. This itinerary will guide you through the main attractions: get ready to experience an unforgettable day.
Table of Contents
How to get
Mount Koya is easily accessible via the Nankai Railway from Namba or Shin-Imamiya Stations in Osaka. To get there, take the Nankai Koya Line from one of the two stations to the terminus of Gokurakubashi. Limited Express trains operate every 1-3 hours and take you directly to Gokurakubashi in about 80 minutes (1720 yen). Alternatively, you can opt for the Express or Rapid Express trains, which run every 20 to 30 minutes and require a transfer at Hashimoto Station along the way. This trip takes about 100 minutes and costs 930 yen.
Once you get to Gokurakubashi, take the funicular up the mountain to Koyasan Station. The ride takes about five minutes and costs 500 yen. From the Koyasan Station you need to take a bus which will take you to the city center in about ten minutes, costing 300 yen, to the stop Senjuinbashi.
For those who have enough time and want to follow in the footsteps of the many pilgrims who have joined Koyasan, you can travel Fudouzaka which takes you to the top of the sacred mountain (you can request a map of the hike from the train station office – map in Japanese only). The trail is uphill and 2.5 km long. It is not well maintained, but it is easy to follow and navigate.
Here a map found online, which we found very useful.
Getting around Koyasan
THE Koyasan temples they constitute a small city located on the top of the mountain. The city is fairly flat and many of its attractions are easily accessible on foot. Most places of interest, such as the Garan, The Kongobuji and the Reihokan Museum, is located in the city center, a few steps from the intersection of Senjuinbashi. Among the main attractions, only Okunoin it is located outside the city center, at the eastern end. At the western end there is the gate Daimon, the traditional entry point to Koyasan.
The city is served by 3 bus lines: the main line connects to the station Koyasan with Okunoin, a second line connects the station Koyasan with the gate Daimon, and a third line connects the gate Daimon with Okunoin. All these lines pass through Senjuinbashi Crossing, where the Koyasan Tourist Information Center is located.
There are several passes available:
- Combined Ticket (2500 yen): Allows entry to numerous points of interest in Koyasan (including Kongobuji, Kondo Hall, Daito al Garan Pagoda, Reihokan Museum and Tokugawa Mausoleum) and allows you to attend a jukai service at the Daishi Kyokai. It can be purchased at Koyasan tourist offices and used for multiple days.
- Koyasan World Heritage Ticket (from 3140 yen): Available at Nankai Namba, Shin-Imamiya, and Tengachaya stations, this ticket includes round-trip travel from Osaka to Koyasan, unlimited bus travel within the city, and discounted admission to Kongobuji, Reihokan Museum, and Kondo Hall and Daito al Garan Pagoda. It is valid for two consecutive days.
- Kansai Railway Pass (5600 or 7000 yen): It can be convenient if you visit Koyasan in combination with other places in the Kansai region, or if you stay in Koyasan for more than two days. Unlike the Koyasan World Heritage Ticket, which is only valid for two consecutive days, the Kansai Railway Pass can be used on non-consecutive days.
- 1-Day Bus Pass (840 yen): day pass that allows unlimited use of buses in Koyasan for one calendar day. It can be purchased at the Koyasan Cable Car Upper Station.
Detailed itinerary
7:21 – 8:58 Transport from Osaka
We wake up early, very early. We leave from Osaka and after a train, a funicular and a bus we find ourselves in the center of one of the most spiritual places in all of Japan. You can hear it.
Tips for Trips: the journey is very pleasant because from Hashimoto to Gagurakubashi the line is one-way because there is only space for a single track: as the train slowly climbs up the mountains, it offers a beautiful view of the valley, with small cute train stations and trees surrounding the carriages all around.
Let's start the route from the main place of interest in the place.
9.30am – Okuno-in Temple and Cemetery
The temple and cemetery of Okunoin, immersed in a vast cedar forest, represent the main attraction of Koyasan. Considered one of the holiest sites in Japan, it is a popular pilgrimage destination. Okunoin hosts the Kobo Daishi mausoleum (also known as Kukai), the founder of Koyasan and Shingon Buddhism, as well as one of the most illustrious figures in Japanese religious history.
There are two main routes through Okunoin. The first, the one we followed, starts from the Inci-no-hashi bridge and winds for two kilometers through the cedar forest. The other option is to take the bus to the Oku-no-in-mae stop and follow the Naka-no-hashi route to the mausoleum, saving about 1 km of walking and passing through the more modern areas of the cemetery. Alternatively, this route can be used for the return to the village.
Once you arrive at the cemetery, entering the internal courtyard, known as Okuno-in, you will be surrounded by towering cedars. This ancient and vast cemetery is an extraordinarily beautiful place to walk. The tall canopy of trees provides shade, while penetrating rays of sunlight reveal ancient moss-covered monuments.
Tips for Trips: The Okuno-in trail extends for about 2km through the cemetery and is beautifully lit by lanterns after dark. If possible, it is worth visiting Okuno-in both during the day and in the evening, when the lights create an evocative atmosphere.
The number of stupas and religious monuments hidden in this forest is surprising, many of them ancient and partly covered by nature. The exact number of mounds is not known, but most estimates place them at over 200,000. By crossing it a hundred times you could discover something new each time. Along the way, you will encounter many gorinto, five-level stupas representing the five elements of Shingon Buddhism: earth, water, fire, wind and space.
Another interesting feature are the statues wearing red bibles, the only splash of color in an otherwise green and gray cemetery. Bibles are placed on statues by people who have lost children, as a prayer to Ojizo-Sama, the protector of children, asking for his help in passing the souls of their children across the mythical Sanzu River.
Some of the most famous points of interest within the cemetery include:
- Kakuban-Zaka scale: This staircase of 43 stone steps is associated with a legend: if you trip and fall while walking up it, you will die within the next three years.
- Miroku-Ishi Sin Stone: Try to lift this stone, which is said to be light for virtuous people and heavy for sinners. The stone is kept in a small hut and you can line up to try to lift it.
- Mizumuke Jizo Statues: Before crossing the bridge to the holiest part of Okuno-in, you will pass a series of bronze statues depicting the bodhisattva Jizo known for helping beings in the realms of the dead. By pouring water on the statues, Jizo will take care of you as you proceed towards the mausoleum.
- Sugatami-No-Ido Reflection Well: Looking down into this well is a little disturbing. It is said that if you see your reflection clearly, you still have a long life ahead of you; if you don't see it, your days are numbered.
- Gobyo-Bashi Bridge: The last bridge on the Okunoin route before entering the sacred grounds containing the Kobo Daishi mausoleum. The bridge itself is made up of 36 stone tiles which, together with the bridge itself, represent the 37 gods of the Diamond Kingdom. It is customary to bow when crossing this bridge, and photography is prohibited beyond this point.
- Gobyo – Kobo Daishi Mausoleum: As you cross the Gobyo-Bashi Bridge, you can see Kobo Daishi's mausoleum in the distance, where he is believed to still meditate. The Tamagawa River flows beneath the bridge.
- Main hall Toro-Do of prayer: Torodo Hall is the main hall of Okunoin, built in front of the mausoleum itself. It is said to contain more than 10,000 lanterns donated to the temple by followers of Kobo Dashi. The monks make sure the lanterns are always lit. Walking through this magnificent hall illuminated by golden light is a truly special experience.
11:00 – Kongo Sanmai-In Temple
The Kongo Sanmai-in Temple it is one of the most unique temples in Koyasan, because it still maintains its original shape. Its location, far from other temples, allowed it to escape most of the fires that destroyed many buildings in Koyasan.
