Of all the stops on our itinerary in Japan, Kyoto won us over with an unequalled grace. This city, once the imperial capital, enshrines the beating heart of Japanese tradition, where from every street, temple and garden it seems as if an ancient samurai should emerge at any moment. Or a Geisha, of which there are still many today. Kyoto is not just a place to visit, but an experience to live.
Its intimate atmosphere, the scents of matcha tea mingling with the fragrance of antique wood, and the spirituality that permeates every corner, from the magnificent Zen temples to the silent Shinto shrines, made us feel welcome. Kyoto does not impose itself, but invites: with its stone gardens that teach patience, with its lanterns that light up the placid evenings, and with its colours that change with the seasons and with the emotions of those who pass through it.
In this 4-day itinerary, we will take you on a discovery of the places and experiences that have made Kyoto our favourite city.
If you want to know how to get around or where to stay, read our Japan Itinerary article and don’t miss our Practical Travel Tips article.
Map
Day 1: Higashiyama
We begin our exploration of Kyoto from Higashiyama and its magnificent temples. The district can be visited on foot in a day thanks to the many footpaths, gardens and extensive parks around the temples.
Our day begins at the Ginkaku-Ji, known as the ‘Silver Pavilion’. As soon as we cross the entrance to the complex, we find ourselves immersed in an oasis surrounded by an ever-present pond, thick carpets of moss and bamboo groves; the architecture is in the Japanese style. The contrast between the deep green of the mosses and the white sand of the Zen garden stands out. We walk along the path that winds around the pond.
We leave Ginkaku-Ji and walk along the Philosopher’s Path (Tetsugaku-no-Michi). It is a very characteristic walk: the path runs alongside a quiet canal and the branches of the trees provide us with light shade. The atmosphere here is really relaxing.
We make a short diversions to visit theHonen-in, a small temple hidden among the trees. The moss-covered entrance gates welcome us into a quiet and intimate environment.
Continuing along the Philosopher’s Path, we arrive atEikan-dō, famous for its beautiful maple trees. We walk among the pavilions, admiring the colours and we are always amazed by the care of the gardens in these temples. The statue of the Buddha facing sideways fascinates us. Climbing up to the pagoda, we get a glimpse of Kyoto from above.
Our route then takes us to Nanzen-ji, one of the city’s most important temple complexes. We pass through the Sanmon gate and into the brick aqueduct, a huge work that seems to have been teleported there from another place and time.
We reach the Shoren-in, a smaller and lesser-known but incredibly fascinating temple. Here we enjoy the view of the garden surrounded by centuries-old camphor trees.
A few steps away is the Chion-in, a set of imposing buildings and spacious courtyards, which serves as the main headquarters of the Jōdo Buddhist school. The gigantic Sanmon gateway is one of the most beautiful, leaving us breathless.
We head to Kōdai-ji, a Zen temple combining refined architecture and extraordinary gardens. We stroll among the teahouses, observing the reflections on the ponds and pine-shaded paths. This temple is a perfect example of the balance between nature and human creation in full Japanese style.
From here we enter the historic alleys of Higashiyama. The cobbled streets, craft shops and wooden houses show us the ancient face of Kyoto, we feel as if we are travelling back in time. Walking along the historic streets of Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, we get lost among traditional shops, teahouses and small boutiques. Every corner looks like something out of a postcard…. and Paolino would like to buy anything, a Katana above all!
We walk up the hill and find ourselves in front of the magnificent Kiyomizu-dera, one of Kyoto’s most famous temples. Climbing to the terrace of the main hall, we admire the breathtaking view of Kyoto, with the Higashiyama mountains in the background.
We end the day in the charming Gion district, famous for its lantern-lit streets. We stop at an izakaya for a traditional dinner and a glass of sake (maybe a few more), toasting the timeless beauty of Kyoto.
Day 2: Centre
Today we were supposed to spend the day immersed in nature, exploring the villages of Kurama and Kibune, but incessant rain caused a train blockade that forced us to change plans. Although we were initially a little disappointed, we decided to take an alternative route into town. Although some of the stops are not ‘unmissable’ Kyoto surprised us even in the rain.
We start our exploration from the Teramachi Kyogoku Shopping Arcade, being all indoors it is perfect for a rainy day. This is a lively area full of shops, art galleries and temples hidden among the covered streets. Despite the grey weather, the atmosphere here is lively. We stroll leisurely, browsing through the local handicrafts and antique shops.
We continue to the Nishiki Market, known to the locals as Kyoto no daidokoro (‘Kyoto cuisine’), the gastronomic heart of the city. It is an explosion of scents and colours, and we cannot resist the temptation to sample some of the local specialities. We stop for a freshly made onigiri, enjoy grilled fish skewers and try some stuffed mochi sweets. Walking among the stalls, watching the vendors intent on their work and listening to the chatter of people makes us feel happy, even on a rainy day.
We move on to Nijō Castle, a masterpiece of historical architecture. We walk through its gardens, which have a special charm even in the rain and grey sky, and venture inside the castle. We take off our shoes and walk on the famous nightingale floors, which creak softly under our footsteps. The gilded decorations and paintings on the walls are a reminder of the power of the Tokugawa shogunate, and we lose ourselves imagining what life must have been like here centuries ago, those who walked those corridors before us.
After the castle, we head to the small but atmospheric Shinsenen Temple. The atmosphere here is particularly intimate (it’s off the beaten track), with the central pond surrounded by dripping trees and the outline of the pagodas reflected in the rain-rippled water. Paul is in danger of being attacked by a group of ducks on the loose but manages to escape the danger!
We take a break at Kyoto Station. With its modern architecture, it is a fascinating contrast to the history and tradition we have experienced in the city. Inside there is a world: the station is also home to a hotel, three shopping centres, restaurants, shops and information centres. Japanese stations can be a focal point for shopping but above all for eating and we stop to eat some of the tastiest wagyu we have tasted in Japan.
Finally, we climb the Kyoto Tower, an iconic attraction that towers in the heart of downtown Kyoto. With its panoramic view over the city, it is the tallest building and offers, from its observation platform 100 metres above the ground, a unique perspective on the city’s most famous sights.
Day 3: Arashiyama
Today we explore Arashiyama, one of the most fascinating areas of the city, where nature and spirituality intertwine in a mosaic of temples, forests and tradition.
We start our day at the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Walking among the dense, tall bamboos, we feel enveloped in a surreal atmosphere. This location is one of the most touristy in Japan, but in our opinion it is still worth it, its fame is well deserved!
Continuing along the path, we reach Tenryū-ji, a UNESCO World Heritage Zen temple, and the garden leaves us speechless. We walk slowly, watching the trees reflected in the pond and enjoying the harmony of the landscape. The gentle rain and the typical temple bells create a truly surreal atmosphere.
We cross the bamboo forest again and head for Jojakko-ji, a temple hidden among the maple and pine trees. There is a steep flight of steps from the thatched-roof Niomon to the temple’s main atrium, the Myokendo. The Tahoto pagoda offers a spectacular view of the city of Kyoto.
Not far away, the Nisonin Temple, famous for its gardens and paths framed by maple and cherry trees, welcomes us with its simplicity. Inside is the Bell of Happiness, Belfry, made to mark the temple’s 1200th anniversary. I ring it three times, I hope it is a good omen!
Our next stop is the Gjō-ji Temple, a little hidden gem that gives us a unique spectacle: its moss garden, shaded by trees, looks like a carefully painted green canvas. We find monks equipped with tweezers ‘cleaning’ the green mantle of moss from grass and leaves – crazy!
Additional stops: For those with more time, a little further on is theAdashino Nenbutsuji Temple, a place charged with spirituality and remembrance. The thousands of small stone statues erected in memory of the dead create a touching atmosphere. TheOtagi Nenbutsu-ji with its stone statues depicting rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, with their unique and often funny expressions, is also worth a visit.
We return to the Togetsu-kyo Bridge, the symbol of Arashiyama, which we cross admiring the river panorama and the surrounding mountains. The fresh air invigorates us before we tackle a steep 30-minute climb to Iwatayama Monkey Park. Once at the top, we meet the cute little monkeys that inhabit the park and fall in love with their festivity. I make friends with the smallest of the monkeys who leans on my foot, pure love! We also get a spectacular view of Kyoto from up here – a moment that fills us with wonder.
We head back towards the centre and end the day in the Ponto-chō district, where the magic of Kyoto lights up under the lantern lights. We stroll along the narrow streets, past traditional restaurants and wooden houses, letting the elegant atmosphere envelop us.
Day 4: Fushimi Inari
It is our last day in Kyoto, but we are ready for one more intense day before moving on to Osaka. We decide to dedicate this day to three emblematic places, which sum up Kyoto’s spirituality, art and history.
We begin with the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine, an iconic place that welcomes us with its endless vermilion torii. We walk along the path that winds s mou through the mountain, immersed in a mystical atmosphere. The torii follow one another like an endless tunnel, and each step takes us farther up the mountain from the modern world. Paolino curses me at every step but it is absolutely worth it, it is one of the most incredible and memorable sites in all of Kyoto.
From there we move on to Tofuku-ji, a magnificent Zen temple famous for its gardens and the striking Tsutenkyo Bridge. We stroll along the paths admiring the harmony between nature and architecture, with maple trees framing the landscape in a riot of colour.
Our last stop in Kyoto is the Sanjūsangen-dō, a place that leaves us breathless with its uniqueness. Entering the long hall, we are enchanted by the thousands of golden statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Each statue seems to have its own personality, its own face, and we lose ourselves in the details that make this place so fascinating. We walk slowly, enveloped by the soft light and the ancient scent of wood, feeling small in front of so much grandeur.
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See you on the next leg of our journey: Osaka.
Last modified: 18 May 2025
